Book Review: The House of Worth, 1858 – 1954

To many, Charles Frederick Worth and the House of Worth created pretty dressed by the score during the Mid to Late 19th Century; in short, he was fashion itself. However, Worth was more than just a collection of pretty dresses, he revolutionized the fashion industry, setting it on a course that gave rise to the Haute Couture industry we know today. However, outside of a little basic information that’s often repeated from website to website and in exhibition catalogs, there’s little hard information on either Worth himself or industry he gave rise to (at least in English).

The one the most complete biography about Charles Worth is Worth: Father of Haute Couture by Diana de Marly but it’s been out of print for some 27 years and is fantastically expensive when you can find it on the used book market (don’t ask what I paid for my copy! 😉 ). However, I am pleased to announce that there is now a book that goes a long way to filling this gap: The House of Worth: 1858 – 1954: The Birth of Haute Couture. Authored by several individuals (Chantal Trubert-Tollu, Francoise Tetart-Vittu, Jean-Marie martin- Hattenberg, and Fabrice Olivieri) and an introduction by Christian LaCroix, this book provides an overview of both Worth himself and his legacy, the House of Worth.

At 335 pages with 486 illustrations, this book is huge and easy to mistake for just a coffee table book with a lot of pretty pictures. It’s not- the information is priceless and provides insight to how Worth operated and what made him a success. Even more compelling are the chapters covering his legacy, the House of Worth, which continued on until it finally closed in 1956 (the trademark name “Worth” still lives on today with a line of perfumes).

What is especially compelling about the book is that it spends some time describing Worth and the fashion industry of the time. From the beginning, Worth was most noted for transforming what was a decentralized, female-dominated industry into a large-scale, industrial operation which completely broke with tradition, especially in that now a man was designing women’s clothing- the rise of the “Man-Milliner.” The idea of a man designing and making women’s clothing was considered shocking in some quarters to the point that Worth was attacked in the press for. However, with the patronage of the Empress Eugenie and Princess Metternich, opposition diminished and others were soon to follow.

Worth, and later his sons Gaston and Jean-Philippe, were always attuned to the market and quick to make changed in their marketing, devising many innovations that were later to become standard in the fashion industry such as licensing designs to outside entities, streamlining production methods, and custom commissioning their own fabrics. And naturally, some attention is given to the idea of “designer as dictator.” a phenomena that exists to the present day. Finally, the commentary on Worth’s pricing methods are revealing in that while he charged extremely high prices, it only stimulated more sales- the power of elite appeal.

Worth Dictator1

Designer as Dictator

Of course, we must make mention of the exquisite color plates illustrating some of Worth’s most notable works are worth the price of the book alone. Although the majority of the pictures can be found online and in  other sources, they’re still a visual treat to be able to physically examine- the next best thing to viewing the garments in person.

We highly recommend this book and there is no doubt that it will become the centerpiece in any fashion library- it has for us. 🙂 To obtain your own copy, just follow the link below:

Design Elements – Color Sets The Mood

One of the key elements in fashion design is color and late 19th Century fashion design is no exception. The design process may vary between individual designers but no matter who they are, they all have to consider what colors they’re going to use in their designs. The selection of colors is dependent on the season (though not always) and as such, tend to follow nature. Today, heavy weight is given to predicting what colors will be popular with fashion consumers because this influences the color and types of fabrics that design houses will order for their new lines; a multi-million dollar industry has been created around predicting what colors will be in for the following year with Pantone being the leading firm because of it setting color standards for a variety of industries.. The following color palettes from Pantone give a good illustration of this:

First we have the palette for Fall 2017:

PANTONE Fashion Color Report Fall 2017, New York

Most of the colors are deep, darker earth tones with a neutral gray mixed in reflecting shorter, darker days, leaves turning and the dying off of plant life in anticipation of winter. Nest, here’s the palette for Spring 2018:

Image result for pantone colors fall 2018

In the above palette for 2018, the colors tend to be lighter, reflecting the increasingly longer days, more sunny weather, and new growth of plants and foliage.

However, before we go on, let me emphasize that color trend predicting is a somewhat subjective and as such, it doesn’t always follow strict rules and as such, it’s more of an approximation today than it was during the 19th Century. Here are two examples from the late 19th Century:

As with other designers, consideration of color makes up a good part of the design process and it’s one of the first steps in the design process. For us, colors fall under three major categories: Fall, Winter, and Spring/Summer. At the same time, we also consider what sort of a garment we’re designing: ball gown, day dress, reception dress, etc. Also, we consider where it’s primarily going to be worn: outside, indoors, indoors at night (e.g., ball room, stage, etc.). Once those questions are answered, we can then proceed with more specific color selections. If the garment is to be worn during the daytime and outside, we tend to first use nature as the first starting point for inspiration.

To illustrate this, let’s consider our Camille picnic dress design. When we originally conceived of it, we were looking for a day dress that could be worn at an outdoor event in the Spring or Summer such as a picnic. The Mid-Bustle Era has always been a favorite with us, so we decided that the style would derive from that period. From there, we determined our color palette, drawing inspiration from the Impressionist painters and Claude Monet in particular. But even more specifically, we wanted to emphasize the Spring with its fresh vegetation and explosion of lighter green colors combined with occasional pops of red or violet and towards that end, Monet’s garden at Giverny was the perfect source of inspiration.

After some online photo research, here’s what we came up with:

Karin Camille Mood Board Spring 2016

Ultimately, the decision was made to go with a bright chartreuse as the primary color based on the greenery found at Giverny that’s portrayed with in Monet’s paintings as well as actual photographs such as this one:

Giverny Monet

Giverny Today

Below are a few more illustrations of the final Camille picnic dress just to give an idea of how the color was ultimately brought to life:

Karin Camille Picnic Dress

Karin Camille Picnic Dress Impressionist

Karin Camille Picnic Dress

From a color theory standpoint, the colors that we ultimately used for the Camille picnic dress were: chartreuse (both pale and bright), pale champagne gold (on the lower sleeves), and yellow-orange (the fringed trim running on the skirt front):

Image result for bright chartreuse pantone

Image result for old gold pantone

Image result for bright orange pantone

Finally, if viewed on the color wheel, you will notice that they are all analogous colors that are located next to each on the wheel:

color-wheel-300

We hope you’ve enjoyed that this post has helped give you some insight into just one of the many elements that go into making a Lily Absinthe design. Stay tuned for more!

And It’s On…The Holiday Tour Of Homes In Tombstone

Historic House Tour Tombstone 2017

Finally it’s on! After working late into the night setting things up and dealing with all manner of last-minute complications, we ready, set, and it’s a go! Believe it or not, Tombstone isn’t just a city with a famous gunfight, it’s also known for it’s wonderful Holiday Tour of Homes! This year will be the second year that our No. 11 is included in this lovely event. Once again, “The Dressmaker’s Cottage at #11” will be fully decorated for Christmas and will have extra surprises of antique machines, part of our antique clothing museum, some new period furniture pieces and a few sparkly things.

Historic House Tour Tombstone 2017

All ready for the holidays- don’t mind the modern trash can… 😉

So, let’s a take a look inside…

Historic House Tour Tombstone 2017

Historic House Tour Tombstone 2017

Historic House Tour Tombstone 2017

And two new furniture pieces just recently re-upholstered.

Historic House Tour Tombstone 2017

Once of our fabulous ball gown/wedding dress creations c. 1878 – 1881. Yes, wedding dresses came in colors other than white!

Historic House Tour Tombstone 2017

And Miss Molly presiding over everything…

As we process pictures, we’ll have more for your viewing pleasure, so stay tuned! <3

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No snow this year and the temperature was quite mild but we thought we’d include this anyway since it is the Christmas season. 

At No. 11 For The Holiday Tour Of Homes

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We’re proud to once again be participating in the Tombstone’s Holiday Tour of Homes for the second year running. We’ve made some changes at No. 11 since last year to include some newly re-upholstered furniture and a different floor plan designed to show off No. 11 at it’s best. “The Dressmaker’s Cottage at #11” will be fully decorated for Christmas and will have extra surprises of antique machines, part of our antique clothing museum, and a few sparkly things. If you’re in the area (or plan to be) this Saturday, please enjoy this event, it’s for charity and there are so many wonderful homes and places of interest to see. <3

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Miss Molly Approves!

Off To Tombstone…

With Thanksgiving well behind us, it’s time to look forward to returning to Tombstone to prepare the house for the 4th Annual Tombstone Tour of Homes scheduled for December 2, 2017. Sponsored by Tombstone Forward, a group dedicated to marketing and promoting Tombstone as a destination and the home tour is  just one example. We’ve re-arranging furniture and have acquired some “new” pieces (or rather, re-upholstered some old ones 🙂 Stay tuned for more! 🙂

Tombstone Historic Home Tour 2017