The Countess Grefuhlle’s Tea Gown

July 12, 2024July 13, 2024 / Adam Lid / Leave a comment

Countess Greffulhe

One of the most iconic versions of the tea gown (or dress) was the one that was made by Maison Worth for the Countess Grefuhlle in 1895. Although tea gowns were initially intended as a form of Victorian “casual wear” for wear at home, the style eventually evolved into something less casual and more focused on achieving a fashion effect (as is the case with a lot of fashions that start simple and evolve into something far more complex). Here are a few views:

Tea Dress, Worth c. 1895; Palais Galliera (GAL1964.20.4)

Three-Quarters Front View

In this close-up, one can see the blue flocked velvet design set against a green silk satin.

Three-Quarters Rear View

Back in 2016-17, an exhibition about her was staged at Palais Gallieria in Paris and the FIT Museum in New York. Below is a link to a video about it:

In future posts, we’ll delve more into this gown but suffice to say, it’s simply stunning and we’re looking forward to someday seeing it in person, whether in Paris or somewhere else.

Designing For The 80s – Part 2

July 29, 2023July 10, 2024 / Karin McKechnie-Lid / Leave a comment

In Part 1, we discussed design approaches for early 1880s fashion, with a dash of late 1870s thrown in. In contrast with the early 1870s, the emphasis was on the vertical rather than horizontal with minimal bustling and trains. Today we move forward into the mid-1880s when the bustle seemingly returned with a vengeance.

Interior Finishing

December 26, 2022April 7, 2023 / Karin McKechnie-Lid / Leave a comment

In the course of sorting out some period garments for Tombstone, we happened across one of the bodices in our collection and after looking at it, it struck me that this demonstrates some of the key elements in period seam finishing. First, the seam allowances have been finished off with an overcast stitch. Also, note the use of boning to add structure to the bodice- this didn’t replace the corset but rather aided in helping to define the bodice shape.

Also, we want to note that this bodice employs flat-lining- this is where a reinforcing piece of fabric is attached to the interior side of the fashion fabric to add stability. This is especially useful when dealing with lighter fabrics and especially silks (polished cotton was frequently used).

Finally, we note that hooks and eyes are used, all the hooks one side, the eyes on the other. You will see an alternating pattern with some bodices but either way is good and both were used.

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