Waist-deep in silks and lace…there’s no place I’d rather be. 😁
Dress Designs
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An Evening Dress From Maison Worth
Today we feature yet another find from Maison Worth, in this case an evening dress from the mid-1890s from Drouot, a French antique auction website:
Worth, Evening Dress, c. Mid-1890s; Drouot Auction Website
This dress is constructed of a pink silk satin (possibly a duchesse) for both skirt and bodice. The skirt is relatively plain except for the ivory silk chiffon running along the hem. The bodice is another matter, decorated in front with a series of black bead and jeweled appliques on the front and on each sleeve cuff. Running along the bustline and the bodice back is ivory netting with spangles. To complete the design, the sleeves are three-quarter length with what appear to be pink chiffon sleeve extensions with spangles. It’s an interest effect, to say the least.
Looking at the sleeve heads, we would venture that this dress was made sometime in the 1893-1895 time frame- there’s a definite fullness but it’s not as expansive as was characteristic of the large gigot sleeves that developed as a style trend in 1895-1897; but of course, this is only conjecture on our part. Below are two close-ups of the bodice front:
The front applique panels create a very complex design. On close examination, it would appear that the base was composed of the same shade of pink netting as found on the sleeve extensions. And now for two rear views:
And a close-up of the sleeve detail:
The sleeve extensions (they see to be more than just “cuffs” to us) are quite elaborate, combining pink netting, spangles, and metallic fringe at the ends. This was probably not the most practical dinner for dining… Finally, just for completeness, here are two views of the bodice interior:
Note the distinctive petersham with the Worth logo. As with most formal bodices of the period, all the seams are boned and it’s interesting to note that the front has three bones sewn in side-by-side. All the seam edges have been finished by hand and overall, the interior appears fairly tidy.
The evening dress is fascinating in that it’s an example that hasn’t been well-documented since it’s been in private collections as opposed to a museum. We’d certainly be interested to know the provenance of the dress; it would be great to be able to find out more about but we suspect it will always remain somewhat of a question mark. We hope you’ve enjoyed most fascinating design from Maison Worth.
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And For Some More From Maison Worth
Today we feature another ball gown from Maison Worth, in this case one from circa 1895 from Drouot, a French antique auction website:
Worth, Ball Gown, c. 1895; Drouot Auction Website
As noted in previous posts, late 1890s and early 1900s ball gowns designed by Worth featured simple silhouettes with the emphasis being placed on the fabric itself with a minimum of trim.
The gown was made of a silk lampas brocade that was expressly woven for Worth by Tassinari & Chatel1Located in Lyon, France, Tassinari & Chatel still exists today. in a “Reine des fleurs” pattern taken from a drawing of the original decoration of the bedroom of Madame du Barry in Versailles. Here’s a view of the train:
And a close-up of the bodice:
As with many of Worth’s designs, ivory chiffon was often draped around the neckline and incorporated into the shoulders. Although this was no doubt done to frame the head/face and provide a little contrast to the fashion fabric, it looks a bit overdone to us. The fashion fabric is overly obscured and its effect diminished. Of course, we’re looking at chiffon that’s over 100 years old so who knows? 😉 And now for some close-ups of the fashion fabric:
The above pictures give a good view of the pattern and just how intricate it was. Silk lampas fabric in smiliary patterns can still be obtained today from Tassinari & Chatel but trust us, it’s not inexpensive. 😆 This dress is an amazing piece of art and is yet another stunning example of Maison Worth’s range of styles.
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