One our most recent projects has been the development of a set of outerwear patterns, starting with a circa 1889 mantle based on period patterning methods. While we had excellent luck with the first prototype, we wanted to refine the design further, starting with a slightly larger wing collar. Also, we decided that adding cuffs would also make the design more interesting so we’ve also developed a pattern piece for those. Below are a few pictures of the base shell- we still need to add various trim:
Here’s a close-up of the collar:
We still have a ways to go before they’re finished but so far, it’s proven to be an excellent design that provides an excellent foundation for many refinements and variations. Stay tuned for more! 🙂
Burning the midnight oil making adjustments to a pattern for a ladies’ viste that I drafted based on original 1880s patterning techniques. It’s a constant back-and-forth process drafting paper pattern pieces, creating a muslin, fitting it on our model and then making changes as necessary. It’s a painstaking, time-consuming process but it’s the only way to assure a good fit. Yes, to paraphrase, it’s 5% inspiration and 95% perspiration (and a lost of muslin gets consumed in the process). 🙂
Last day to finish, skirt and train piece are done except for tacking on that monster pleated ruche and one more bodice fitting. Onward!
Just a little update on just one of several mantle designs currently under development. This particular mantle has been constructed from an original period pattern that we have modified somewhat for sizing and fit. Our prototype features a semi-rigid sleeve design (no overhead lifting with this mantle!) with an extreme pointed elbow and a winged mandarin collar (which can be modified into a number of different styles). The fabric we’re using is a rich brocade with a metallic gold design. Here are a few more pictures to add to our previous post:
Above are front and back views. The patterns on the fashion fabric were fairly easy to match up.
Side profile of the sleeves. Here’s some close-ups of the collar:
We’re planning on offering this in a variety of fabrics with several collar variants. Stay tuned for more! 🙂
With the coming of Winter, our thoughts have turned to outerwear and specifically, mantles and dolmans. We are in the process of developing several designs to include this one that’s been developed utilizing period pattern-making methods. For our first design is this circa 1889 mantle:
The rear view- working with this fabric was not easy and required some work to get the fabric pattern to properly match us, especially since the back seam is not flat.
Detail of the collar. Although this one is meant as a winged Mandarin collar, other styles can also be utilized.
Stay tuned for further developments! 🙂