John Redfern/Redfern & Sons, Part 1

One of the lesser-known designers of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries was John Redfern (1820 – 1895). Not a lot of information is out there but here’s what I managed to find out. Redfern was originally trained as a tailor and in 1850 opened a draper’s establishment in Cowes on the Isle of Wight. In 1871, he expanded his business to sell silk and mourning garments. Later, Redfern expanded in offering yachting outfits and other clothing for women, capitalizing on the Isle of Wight being a center for yachting activity. Redfern is credited for being one of the first designers to make tailored clothing respectable for women.

In contrast to Worth who insisted on having his clients travel to him, Redfern established a number of locations close to his wealthy clientele. With the aid of his son Ernest Redfern and an employee Charles Poynter (who later added the surname Redfern to his name), Redfern opened tailoring houses in London and Paris in 1881, followed by two shops in New York in 1884-85, one for tailoring, the other for furs. By 1882 Redfern was successful in becoming Tailors by Appointment for the Princess of Wales and by 1885 had become Tailors by Appointment for Queen Victoria and Queen Emma of the Netherlands, among others. The advertisements below attest to this and in others, Redfern was marketing his firm as being a “Ladies Tailor”.

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Advertisement from Vol. V, No. 105 (January 1, 1885) issue of Life.

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1885 Advertisement

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Advertisement from Harper’s Bazar, November 26, 1887.

Redfern’s forte was tailored garments as can be seen from the September 17, 1887 issue of Harper’s Bazar:

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Harper’s Bazar, September 17, 1887.

The three figures in the middle are dressed in the tailored suit style for women that often involved waistcoats, faux and functioning. Redfern helped to popularize this look along with the later “tailormade” style that was to develop in the 1890s. of which the following is just one example:

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Bodice Jacket, Redfern, 1892; National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne (D187.a-c-1974)

The theme of the tailored women’s suit is taken further with this ensemble that Redfern made circa 1887 – 1889. It features two different bodices and an additional front skirt panel. The heavy use of looping braid and buttons takes on a military look, making for a structured look.

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Day Dress Ensemble, Redfern, c. 1887 – 1889; Metropolitan Museum of Art ( 49.3.32a–e).

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Close-Up of Skirt

And now for the second style. The above bodice could be replaced with a similar one trimmed in a long row of buttons running along each side of the opening. Inset is a one large row of looped braid running down the front.

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The second look is interesting in that the bodice has a tail attached to it that spread out to cover the skirt as can be seen below:

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The above ensemble is a good example of the tailormade look that was beginning to take hold in the late 1880s. One can see that the bustle is fairly minimal and it’s likely that there was only a bustle pad used underneath.

In the next installment, we will look at a few more examples of Redfern’s work during the late 19th Century. It is interesting that as the 1890s progressed, Redfern would begin to diversify more, creating softer designs that got away from his signature “tailormade” style.

To Be Continued….



And For Another Take On Tombstone And That Famous Gunfight

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Today we return briefly to Tombstone through the medium of television and specifically the episode of the original Star Trek television series entitled “Spectre of the Gun.” First aired on October 25, 1968, the episode centered on the inhabitants of planet Theta Kiokis II using an episode out of earth history, the gunfight at the OK Corral, as a means of punishing Captain Kirk for attempting to establish contact with the Melkotians in spite of being warned away by them.

The sets are somewhat surreal with incomplete walls, clocks and pictures that hand in mid-air, etc. because the Melkotians are using Kirk’s thoughts as the basis for Tombstone and the gunfight to recreate them as an illusion. The premise is a cleaver one and one can see it reflective of the spirit of the late 1960s with references to Man’s tendencies towards violence and killing, often for little reason.

In terms of props and costumes, this was no doubt easy to put together since Paramount Studios still had a large collection of wardrobe and props suitable for Westerns (after all, this was the tail end of the heyday of the television Western). Also what is interesting is that while this was filmed on a soundstage, they actually have a live horse or two as background- nice touch that you probably would not see if it were filmed today.

Turning to the costumes, it’s pretty much television B-Western stuff but in context of this being a Star Trek episode, it works. Here are some shots of Ensign Chekhov with Sylvia, the love interest:

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We first meet her in a saloon girl style dress that’s right out of B-Western Central Casting. Unfortunately, I could not get a good screen shot of the whole dress but it’s short and the color is appropriately bright and gaudy.

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Chekhov with his love interest Sylvia.

Here we see Sylvia in something more demure, a generic bustle dress. Once again, I was unable to secure a screen shot but it’s a pretty generic B-Western look for the 1870s or 80s. Like much of this costuming of this era, the actresses did not wear any period undergarments (like say, a corset) and it’s evident in this picture. The hat appears to be something from the 1930s or 1950s that’s been reconditioned.

Next we have the Enterprise landing party. No surprises here and they’re all wearing the stereotypical buscadero rigs for their guns, a look that was invented for Hollywood in the early 1920s. The web belt on Spock is interesting though- no doubt they all were simply dug out of the prop room with little thought except that they fit.

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Now let’s take a look at some of the other characters:

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The Earps, from left to right: Wyatt, Morgan, and Virgil.

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Morgan Earp

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Virgil Earp

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Wyatt Earp

And of course no gunfight at the OK Corral is complete without:

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Doc Holliday

And we can’t forget:

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Johnny Behan

Kind of a contrast to this: 🙂

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Johnny Behan as portrayed in the movie Tombstone.

And for a few more shots:

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Doc Holliday and Dr. McCoy

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The “walkdown” to the OK Corral.

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Morgan is about to get his chance to settle the score….

The above shot of Morgan Earp, framed by lightning is very effective in revealing his character, a manic individual who is bent on a gunfight no matter what.

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The OK Corral complete with live horse as background set dressing. 🙂

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No getting out of it now…

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And the fight is on!

From a costume perspective there’s not a lot going on here but as a Star Trek episode, it was imaginative and fresh for the time. In some respects it hits on themes that are still relevant in later film versions of the Gunfight at the OK Corral and the events leading up to it.


 

Life In The Fast Lane

In our aterlier, we use almost exclusively refurbished vintage sewing machines for our sewing; the old machines they sew much more precisely with fewer issues than the modern ones made from plastic. What is especially a pleasure is that the sheer bulk of these cast iron machines keeps the fabric exactly where it should be and that means less stress and strain for me, especially when I am doing some complicated sewing. Here are some of the machines that we use here…

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Singer Model 31-15 (aka, the Tailor’s Model) Sewing Machine- One of the first industrial machines.

Treadling sans shoes…life in the fast lane. 🙂

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Early morning “view from here”. All good ideas start from that old clipboard! 🙂

Pretty Little Corsets…

Over the years, some of our work has appeared in various film and television productions. One such item is a corset that we patterned and constructed in association with Clockwork Couture for the Pretty Little Liars 2013 Halloween Special. Specifically, the corset was worn by Lucy Hale who plays the character Aria Montgomery.

It was a black brocade on coutil with a black lace on pink satin shaped flange overlay with jewelled clasps, piped and hand finished with a hidden front busk covered with decorative hinges. It was all done via a remote fitting and we were told the actress wanted to keep it, so it has a good home. Perfect fit…the first time.

Here’s the corset:

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And here’s the corset in the show:

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1382364660_pretty-little-liars-350 Pretty-Little-Liars_0This was probably one of the more interesting projects that we’ve taken on and it was nice to see how the final product looked on screen. 🙂

A Toast To Soapy Smith

Jefferson Randolph Smith, November 2, 1860 – July 8, 1898.

Jefferson Randolph Smith, November 2, 1860 – July 8, 1898.

Last night we indulged in our yearly ritual of paying homage to the memory of the “Bad Man” Soapy Smith. Formally named Jefferson Randolph Smith II, Soapy was famous for as a confidence man specializing in just about every known form of bunco (and he made up some new ones too). Working his way through the West, Soapy built up one of the first true crime syndicates, first in Denver and later in Skagway.

Unfortunately for Soapy, he met his demise at the ripe age of 38when on July 8, 1898 when he was shot and killed in a confrontation with Frank Reid and a mob of vigilantes over allegations of having cheated John Douglas Stewart out of a sum of money.

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Jeff Smith’s Parlor in Skagway, 1898

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Held yearly at the Magic Castle in Hollywood, California, the event commemorates Soapy’s passing and gives the rest of us a chance to raise a glass and toast what was, no doubt, one of the American West’s most colorful characters (although if you were one of his victims, you might think differently). 🙂

Here are some pictures of us:

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On the red carpet at the Magic Castle.

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Here we are watching the proceedings. unfortunately, yours truly managed to get sunburned earlier and it shows in the light.

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Dress makeover complete! The three-quarter sleeves have been replaced by shorter ones.

We were not able to stay for long but what time we spent there was nice and we’re looking forward to next year already! 🙂

For information on the life and times of Soapy Smith, I high recommend Soapy Smith’s Soap Box.