There’s always fun when pleating is involved! More to follow… đ
These books are the top of our list for Historical Dress research, all are reprints of original sources and images of the era…now you can buy them here from Lily Absinthe. Stock is constantly changing so check back often!! â€




I‘s been especially cold lately in Southern California and once again, thoughts turn to outerwear…đ
Even in Southern California (and Southern Arizona, for that matter), December can get cold and when it does, our thoughts rapidly turn to outerwear. đ Today we turn to the December 1890 issue of Demorest’s Family Magazine:
Decidedly the most popular outdoor garment this season is the jacket, which is worn by ladies of all ages, whether of petite or portly figure. All styles agree in having the fitted back, differing only in the use or omission of plaits or lap at the side-form and back seams, and the majority have tight-fitting fronts, either single or double-breasted, the loose fronted âReefer,” and the open, rolling fronts displaying a vest, being the exceptions.
Here’s some examples of styles pictured in Demorest’s:
One of the more interesting and eminently practical is the “Reefer” Jacket:

Here’s another view of the jacket style as part of a complete outfit from the December issue of Peterson’s Magazine:
Finally, just to round things off here are some pictures of extant originals:
Jackets were an integral part of any wardrobe of the period, ranging from the purely functional to the extremely fashionable, and there’s a wide range of possibilities for those recreating historical fashions.
These books are the top of our list for Historical Dress research, all are reprints of original sources and images of the era…now you can buy them here from Lily Absinthe. â€





Brrr…it’s a bit cold here in Southern California with a hint of rain to come and we can’t help but think of jackets and especially 1890s jackets. đ Here’s a nice circa 1895 example from the FIDM Museum:
Constructed of a black (at least from what we can tell in the photos), this jacket definitely reads mid-1890s with it’s Medici collar, gigot sleeves, nipped waist and flaring peplum. The silhouette is simple with an emphasis on function but it’s immaculately tailored with understated trim in the form of black soutache.
The black soutache work is amazing:
This is an amazing example- both functional and elegant. We’re definitely feeling inspired now! đ