The King Of Fashion – Paul Poiret

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Paul Poiret was one of the most influential designers of the early 20th Century and one whose influence lives on to this day. Self-styled “the King of Fashion,” Poiret’s designs marked a sharp break with the conventions that had developed during the late 19th Century and while some of his claims were somewhat exaggerated, it’s safe to say that many of his ideas marked the profound re-defining of the female fashion with an emphasis on more loose, flowing styles that did not directly involve rigid body sculpting based on the corset. Of course it could be argued that while outward appearances changed, underneath foundation garments were still extensively used- basically, the body sculpting went underground, so to say. But nevertheless, with Poiret we see an emphasis on free movement and all that implied.

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Poiret is also somewhat enigmatic with the seemingly contradictory nature of some of his innovations. While on the one hand he proclaimed that he had freed women from the rigid confines of the corset, he also introduced the hobble skirt which brought rigidity and confinement in another form. In looking at his life, we see that Poiret developed many of the marketing techniques that have become standard in the fashion industry. At the same time, we also see Poiret’s belief in his own infallibility clouding his judgement to the point where he stopped developing as a designer and ultimately leading to his downfall.

Poiret’s life is a fascinating mix of the fantastical and the commonplace and rife with seeming contradictions and as such, are worthy of further investigation and in the months to come, I’ll be sharing my findings here. Stay tuned for more! 🙂



Let’s Do It Again- Adam’s Atelier Travels To Costume College

After last year’s success, I will once again be presenting at Costume College for 2017. For 2017, I will be giving an expanded version of the presentation I gave last year on US Army uniforms of the First World War Era from 1915 through 1918. Also, I will be giving presentations on Paul Poiret, entitled The King of Fashion: Paul Poiret and His World and a presentation on French couture of the late 19th Century entitled Early French Couture. It promises to be a full plate for 2017 and there’s a lot of work to be done getting prepared. 🙂

So what is Costume College? Well, it’s an event devoted to costuming in it’s many forms, whether historical, fantasy, or somewhere in between. Classes and presentations consist of both lecture and hands-on workshop formats and are all taught by volunteers. From my perspective, it give us an opportunity to present topics of interest to myself and otherwise get a view of current trends and ideas in the costume world.

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Overall, it’s an interesting experience and one that I would highly recommend for anyone interested in the costuming in its various aspects.

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Stay tuned for further developments!

On The Move…

Things have been a bit chaotic as we move forward with preparing the new atelier space. In the meantime, the new house is rapidly filling up with blots of fabric and pattern paper, sewing machines, mannequins, boxes of patterns, and all the other miscellaneous tools and odd bits that go into making a fashion atelier what it it. 🙂

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And there’s no end to the fabric…

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And just a few of the many pattern blocks…

Of course, the highest priority is getting the new atelier workspace prepared…

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Working out the color scheme, flooring, and curtain details…yes, we’re also interior designers on occasion…

The overall goal is to be able to provide a more enjoyable experience for our clients so we’ve been giving a lot of thought and consideration into getting the details just right. Stay tuned for more as we move forward with our latest venture. 🙂

Moving Forward…

Lily Absinthe Bridal Gown

It’s been quiet here on the blog of late and for this we sincerely apologize. In the past month, we’ve been dealing with a number of life-changing events that have called for our near-complete attention and unfortunately the blog has suffered for it.

However, we just want our readers to know that we have not forgotten them and we’re in the process of ramping up for the spring with a number of changes to include the relocation of the Lily Absinthe atelier to a new and larger location. It will take a little adjustment but we feel that the move will only serve to enhance our designs and ultimately allow us to deliver a superior product to you, the customer.

Stay tuned for more updates! <3

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La Belle Epoch

Rich silks, lush pleating, hand finishing, stunning designs- we’re inspired by the beauty of La Belle Epoch for our Lily Absinthe Brides. <3

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