Happy Holidays From Lily Absinthe!
This is the time of year where we like to pause a bit and reflect on the events of the past year. For us, 2016 has been an exceptionally good year and we’ve gone from strength to strength as we’ve created designs for our various clients and in helped them achieve their dreams. In the coming year, we hope to continue this trend and we look forward to serving you. 🙂
Recently, we came across this striking example of a day dress, circa 1876, influenced by Japonisme. Starting with the opening of Japan to the West in the 1860s, Western fashion and specifically, female fashion, saw the use of imported Japanese textiles as well as incorporating various Japanese-inspired decorative motifs in domestic-produced textiles of which Liberty of London was one of the leading producers. However, at the same time, Japan was also adapting to Western fashion although it was on a more limited scale. Here are a few views of the dress:
Day Dress, American, made by Martha J. De La Mater, c. 1876; The Fenimore Art Museum, Cooperstown, NY (N0129.1966)
Close-Up Of Bodice
This basic fashion fabric is made from a brown/copper silk combined with a silk brocade patterned with chrysanthemums- a fairly common Japanese motif. The trim is minimal except for metallic gold beading running along the front waist and edges of the overskirt. In terms of style, the pseudo-waist sash and knotted front overskirt combined with the pleated front bodice are suggestive of a kimono. At the same time, mandarin collar gives the front bodice a clean, crisp finish that doesn’t distract from the rest of the dress- no excess lace, netting or trim.
Here are a few more views:
Side Profile – Close-Up
Side Profile – Full View
Three-Quarters Frontal View
The Maker’s Label – Martha J. De La Mater
This dress was made by a Martha De La Mater who was one of several dressmakers working in Albany and she’s is listed in the 1889 edition of the Albany City Directory. Also, the dress was made for a one Lucy Clark. The world of Japonisme never fails to interest us and it’s been a fertile field for design inspiration with us and hopefully it will be for you. 🙂
Well, 2016 is winding down and I can finally take a small break. 2016 has been a very busy year for Karin and I here at Lily Absinthe. Between traveling to No. 11 in Tombstone, conventions, and designing and creating our line of bridal fashions, it’s been a full plate and for 2017 it looks like more of the same. For me personally, it’s been a year of personal growth as I have worked to expand my technical knowledge of design and fashion history. While the road has been bumpy at times and required a major investment of time and energy, the rewards have been personally satisfying and has given me a sense of personal accomplishment.
Making some final adjustments…
For 2017, I plan on moving further and exploring the various facets of 19th and early 20th Century fashion and while there will, no doubt, be many challenges, I look forward to them because in the end, it can only have a positive outcome. 🙂
Fashion doesn’t always happen in the Atelier…
It all starts here…
Merry Christmas to our friends and clients who celebrate, and today begins the final rush for Sunday. We’re staying close to home, making a few things, wrapping up orders (sneaking in a few old holiday movies), and coming up with some new designs to be finished in January…that’s our idea of fun! Merry Christmas Week from us both at Lily Absinthe! <3
W‘re taking a small break from the Atelier to do a little holiday baking and we just had to back some cookies decorated at corsets (naturally). 🙂