Lily Absinthe – We’re Getting There!

After two day’s work, we’re finally beginning to see light at the end of the proverbial tunnel… 🙂 We have managed to re-organize our library, finally consolidating our collections in one place for the first time in years and making it more accessible. We’re also beginning to work on the atelier so it will be optimized for visiting clients and production. We’re almost there! 🙂

Lily Absinthe Looks at Some Real Tombstone Types

For the past couple of days, we’ve been delving into the movie Tombstone. Now We’d like to show you what some of the people portrayed in the film actually looked like:

Fred White

Fred White (c. 1849 – 1880)

Curly Bill Brocious (c. 1845 – March 24, 1882)

Curly Bill Brocious (c. 1845 – March 24, 1882)

Tom McLaury (June 30, 1853 – October 26, 1881)

Tom McLaury (June 30, 1853 – October 26, 1881)

And last, but not least:

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Wyatt Earp (March 19, 1848 – January 13, 1929)

Those are just a few of the people portrayed in Tombstone.  Now for a more general view of some of the inhabitants of Arizona during the 1880s:

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Sheriff and associates, c. 1880s.

This is a great early Arizona Territory image from C.S. Fly of three identified cowboys with John Slaughter's Ranch outfit. The men are identified on the reverse in pencil as,

Three cowboys from John Slaughter’s Ranch outfit. The men are identified on the reverse in pencil as, “Wake Benge, Tad Roland, and Jeff Lewis – Cowboys for John H. Slaughter in July 1879 all came to Arizona with Mr. Slaughter’s first herd.” Photographed by C.S. Fly.

Cowboys from John Slaughter's ranch, c. 1885

Cowboys from John Slaughter’s ranch, c. 1885

The above pictures give an idea of how people actually looked during the period. Original photographs are in invaluable source of information for researching costume information but they should be used judiciously- often times, people dressed up especially for the camera and this may not reflect their “everyday” clothes. Also, photographers often maintained all manner of props so people could look like someone they weren’t (like say, a cowboy :-)). We encourage people to do their own research, there are hundreds, if not thousands of pictures out there. 🙂

Tombstone- A Follow Up

Well, it seems that yesterday’s post in regard to some costuming aspects of the movie Tombstone garnered quite a of reaction, some good, some not-so-good, and some that simply missed the point. In regard to the latter, there’s not much that can be done so we’ll focus on the good and not-so-good elements.

First, just a little clarification. Our comments are focused on the wardrobe and costume aspects of the film and their historical or non-historical aspects. As to the plot, quality of acting, et al, we leave that to others (and yes, we do have our opinions but they really don’t belong here). Next, as for the non-historical aspects of the costume, it bears repeating that films, like all entertainment, they are just that: entertainment. As such, that is the first and foremost consideration.

In many instances, good costuming need not take a backseat to the film’s ultimate entertainment value and there are numerous period piece films and television productions that bear this out. And yes, even Westerns. 😉 However, at the same time, a director will envision the film as having a certain “look”. Working with the production designer and costume designer, the director will attempt to achieve this artistic vision. Sometimes this succeeds brilliantly and sometimes not.

The above is the Cinema 101 version. In practical terms, directors go about creating their vision in various ways ranging from camera angles, CGI effects, costume, etc. In the case of Westerns, they can be rooted in gritty reality such as with Unforgiven or something a bit more fantastical such as The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly or High Plains Drifter (Spaghetti Westerns sort of straddle both worlds here).

Even with the Tombstone and Wyatt Earp, the difference in approaches is obvious:

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Wyatt Earp Movie1

Having worked in a few productions over the years, we are very attuned to the practical aspects of costuming for film and television. What is be historically accurate may not read well on film. Also, in many ways, costuming can reflect more about the period that the production was made; it’s really obvious if one watches an old Roy Rogers movie or episodes of Gunsmoke.

So I’ll leave you with that for now. Happy Trails! 🙂

Lily Absinthe Takes A Quick Look at Some Costuming Aspects of the Movie Tombstone

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The Earps and Doc Holiday off to the date with destiny at the OK Corral- From the movie Tombstone.

On a costuming level, the movie Tombstone never fails to excite interest and invariably, the question will arise: “How historically accurate are the costumes?” The short answer is “Somewhat…” Yes, much of the costuming is fairly accurate although one may quibble on the specific details. One of my favorites is the much-maligned Johnny Behan:

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Johnny Behan wearing a tailored blue/gray pin stripe sack suit.

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A better view of Johnny Behan’s suit.

Behan’s is wearing a well-tailored sack suit proper for someone in his position. Unlike the usual image of the scruffy frontier marshal or sheriff, Behan was more of a politician and his primary job was collecting enough tax revenue to keep the Cochise County government financially afloat. The actual work of dealing with criminals was tasked to several deputies.

That said, let’s take a look at the central focus of the movie, Wyatt Earp:

Wyatt Earp1

This is the iconic Wyatt Earp outfit, one that has been widely imitated over the years by those recreating the Earp persona, usually for reenactments of the gunfight at the OK Corral. Now, as for historical accuracy, the coat itself is wrong. There were no ankle-length frock coats. Anything this long would be some sort of greatcoat. The frock coat of the later 19th Century tended to come down to just above the knee.

OK, so it rates a boo and a hiss…or does it? Bear in mind that this is a movie and a movie’s primary goal it to tell a story. Costuming supports this story-telling process and it’s often subject to conscious design changes in order to increase the dramatic effect. In this case, it’s pretty successful, judging from how much it’s imitated and let’s face it, it does increase the dramatic effect, especially when done in black (both the length and color choice were deliberate choices made the director). The effects of black color, coat length, and pictures of it flapping open in the breeze all suggest a superhero figure. So in the end, it’s all about telling a story.

Now just for a little equal time, here’s the Earps and Doc Holliday off to the OK Corral gunfight in the movie Wyatt Earp:

Wyatt Earp Movie1

The Earps and Doc Holiday off to the OK Corral and thei date with destiny- from the movie Wyatt Earl.

Compared to the top picture from Tombstone, the look in the above picture from Wyatt Earp is bit more gritty and less heroic (in fact, the actual gunfight scene itself is a bit anticlimactic in the movie). One is not more “correct” than the other, both go for a specific dramatic effect. Whether one is more effective than the other is subjective, in the eye of the viewer (we have our favorite, too).

So Gentle Readers, where does this leave us? Well, it goes to show that one must be mindful of the historically correct while at the same time being mindful that a movie’s objective differs from simply a recitation of historical events in that it also seeks to entertain. As a rule, costume designers go to great lengths to school themselves on what is historically appropriate for the period being depicted and they know exactly where departures are made.

If one thinks that this is a recent development, it is not. A good example of this in an earlier era is from the movie Gone with the Wind which was released in 1939. in which the costuming of the background and supporting characters is historically correct but the costumes for the lead actors were not. In closing, we view movies with an open mind and believe that costuming for film is an art form all itself and we like that.



Lily Absinthe…Taking a Small Break

We’re working furiously to re-arrange the atelier so we can book more business and have open houses for clients. As part of the process, we’ve been consolidating our varied libraries into something more unified and that will make things more easy to locate. We are amazed at all the duplicate books we’ve acquired over the years- it’s too bad one of those duplicates is not The Opulent Era. 😉

Next stop, re-organize the fabric stash! 🙂

But have no fear, Gentle Readers, in another day we will be more than ready, willing, and able to book more orders. Let us assist with your design needs.

Hard at work sorting through all the fabric...

Hard at work sorting through all the fabric…

And after our small hiatus…

Pose de garnitures dans l'atelier de Worth, grand couturier parisien. Paris, 1907.

And soon we’ll be just as busy…

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And we offer a wide variety of styles and fabrics…

worth

And we’re always ready to consult with clients…