T this gown *is* my future! I’ve lifted a pattern, sourced the silk, now to make one inspired by C.F. Himself, hoping to find some secrets in this gown in our museum collection. Um, in my spare time. 🙂
Luscious blush and salmon vintage silk flosses from Elizabeth Emerson Designs, the packaging is beautiful and the threads are lovely to work with!
Today we take a short break with this illustration from Charles Dana Gibson:
For some reason, the above illustration reminds us of this tea gown that was made by Maison Worth in 1895:
While of course this is not a direct match, it still shares a fairly busy design…the color alone is a source of inspiration. With that said, stay tuned for more developments! 🙂
Pretty blush Lily Absinthe corset en vogue for 1900, from extant coutil, Calais lace, and antique ribbons from Elizabeth Emerson Designs…be still, my heart! 🙂
Paul Poiret has always been fascinating to us and his designs and innovations never fail to amaze. At the same time, Poiret is also a cautionary tale on the dangers of not adapting to a changing zeitgeist (the spirit of a particular historical period). Poiret was a bit of showman and he utilized all manner of publicity in order to advance his innovations such as eliminating the corset-created silhouette as an essential design element (even though other couturiers were working on similar designs at the same time such as Jeanne Paquin) and the introduction of the jupe-culotte.
Poiret was also instrumental in introducing a simpler, less structured silhouette starting with the Directoire style in 1906:
The First World War disrupted the French fashion industry and Poiret was no exception. Called up for military service, Poiret was assigned to work on simplifying the production of uniforms and while he was successful in this area, his fashion house barely kept itself afloat financially. After the war, Poiret tried to pick up where he’d left off in 1914 but the fashion world had moved on with an emphasis on more simple designs such as those created by Coco Chanel. Poiret’s designs failed to catch on and combined with financial mismanagement and a nasty divorce from his wife Denise, he was ultimately forced to close his fashion house in 1929. In future posts, we’ll delve into some of Poiret’s post-WWI designs and the overall decline of Poiret’s influence as a designer.