Currently in my studio…Pouting Princess Fiona wants a floaty summer dress, too. 😁
Best In The West
Mid-Bustle Era/Natura Form – Asymmetrical Style
We’re on a roll when it comes to Mid-Bustle/Natural Form style! Today we feature this day dress that was made by Maison Cécile Laisne sometime around 1879 in Paris. What’s interesting about this dress is the use of asymmetrical design elements:
Maison Cécile Laisne, Day Dress, c. 1879; Metropolitan Museum of Art (C.I.45.38.2a, b)
The skirt and bodice are made from a gold/champagne-colored silk jacquard with a silk satin knife-pleated hem made from the same color. The neck and upper bust are filled in with a gauze that’s also in the gold/champagne color. However, the most striking element are the wide jeweled/gold metallic braid trim stripes that run up both sides of the bodice front and decorate the cuffs. Below, a larger strip of trim with the same jeweled metallic braid runs along the lower bodice and skirt, starting at the center back of the bodice and then spiraling down and following the train on the left side. Below is a close-up of the front upper bodice:
The trim definitely makes the front bodice stand out and it catches the eye, combined with the large center bow.
The view shows the dress silhouette nicely and one can make out the floral jacquard pattern. Two rows of pleating along the hem further serve to accentuate the train. Below is another view of the train:
In the above and below pictures, we see the trim to its fullest extent, running along the one side of the lower bodice and then down the left side of the demi-train.
Below is a close-up of the silk jacquard fashion fabric with it’s floral motif:
And the cuff accents:
And finally, a nice close-up view of the trim- this was, no doubt, all set by hand and represents hours of work.
The use of asymetrical design elements is one major style that’s common in late 19th Century dresses and the above dress is just one example. What makes this one so striking is the use of a wide, very elaborate stripe that immediately catches the eye, especially from behind and while it’s a bit jarring, it does succeed in capturing the viewer’s immediate attention. While this wasn’t a style for everyone, it was definitely one that was guaranteed to get attention- can you say Mrs. Bertha Russell, anyone? 😁
And Now For Some Mid-1890s Style
1890s style is definitely a thing with us and today we present you this circa 1895 evening dress:
Rouff, Evening Dress; Metropolitan Museum of Art (2009.300.6477a, b)
The color and texture combination of this dress are a very harmonious combination of an olive velvet bodice combined with a black silk satin skirt and bodice front panels. To finish the style, there’s gold embroidery and fringe which serve to offset the black skirt and front bodice. Although there’s only one picture of the dress, it does appear that there’s a separate bodice and skirt and the skirt appears to be have been made from the black silk satin fabric; the gold embroidery is a floral design that’s rectangular, running down each side of the front part of the skirt and then running along the skirt bottom, above the hem. It’s too bad that there’s no pictures of the dress from the back or sides.
Close-up of trim detail.
Above is a close-up view of the bottom skirt front and the gold embroidery can be clearly seen. Also, one can also see that black beaded appliques were also used as part of the floral pattern design. In terms of style, the wide neck line and low shoulders suggest an evening dress style but this style would also work as a reception dress. It’s a fascinating dress and we only wish that there were some more pictures available- there’s a lot of details that are obscured. But, nevertheless, this is another source of dress inspiration, especially with the large leg-of-mutton sleeves.
And Now For Some Late 1880s Dress Style
Today we move towards the end of the 1880s with this circa 1889 day dress from the Met:
Day Dress, c. 1888-1889; Metropolitan Museum of Art (C.I.41.15.2a, b)
This dress consists of redingote bodice constructed from a dark jewel tone blue colored silk duchess (of at least it appears that way from what can tell from the photos) combined with a skirt of the same color in a silk jacquard with a floral pattern. The underbodice appears to be a multi-colored patterned, perhaps a wool or silk-wool challis, that serves as a dramatic color pop set against the dark blue background. Also, if you look closely at the underbodice, it’s been style so that hangs in a swag on the wearer’s left side ending in a fringed tail. It’s interesting to see this combined with the redingote style bodice.
This rear view provides a better view of the long tails of the redingote bodice combined with the skirt and train. While it’s got a train, it’s somewhat restrained and hints at skirt styles of the 1890s.
This close-up of the front upper bodice gives a good view of the underbodice. The outer bodice has been cut to show off the underbodice color to the best advantage. This dress is just one interesting variation of the “Redingote” style that was trending in the late 1880s and early 1890s and to us, it’s another source of inspiration for a recreated period dress style- stay tuned for more on this in the future.
More 1880s Day Wear Style
Looking for ideas for recreating early 1880s daywear? Well, here’s one interesting source of inspiration- a circa 1882-1883 day dress from the Met 😃:
Day Dress, c. 1882-1883; Metropolitan Museum of Art (C.I.41.38.1a, b)
This day dress combines a purple with gold silk brocade floral pattern bodice and overskirt with a purple-colored silk underskirt a rich color palette. The purple is deep, leaning towards jewel tones and the gold brocade provides a dramatic bright contrast.
As can be seen, the dress silhouette reads early 1880s and features a moderate train/bustle arrangement. The gold overskirt/apron and bodice attract the eye and lead it up to the wearer’s face- this one’s both elegant and understated at the same time.
Above provides a good view of the bodice and the contrast between it and the skirt- the combination is both contrasting and harmonious at the same time.
The above close up of the upper front bodice shows an inset of ruched purple silk and it appears to open from the front, judging from the evident hooks and eyes. This dress could easily fit in on the series The Gilded Age and it something we’d expect a member of the conservative van Rhijn family to wear. Let this serve to inspire! 😁