The Lucy Wedding Dress…

Weddings and wedding costume have been powerful cultural symbols throughout history. To see their fundamental purpose twisted is disturbing and especially in a horror film…


With all the recent postings about bridal fashions, I thought I would throw this into the mix…:-) We’re looking at Lucy’s wedding dress from Francis Ford Coppola’s 1992 Dracula and it’s quite a fright (and that’s before Lucy makes her dramatic transformation into a vampire). Supposedly, the film is set in 1897 and thus it would be reasonable to assume that the costuming would follow. However, in reality it’s more like the mid to late 1880s, at least for some of the dresses. For the Lucy wedding dress, it’s a bit more uncertain, to say the least…

Our first take on this dress was that it underscores Lucy’s transformation from a seemingly innocent girl into a vampire, the epitome of pure evil and corruption. This is not an original interpretation on our part, it’s been put forward that Lucy’s fate is that of the Victorian female who dared to flout the dominant social conventions that dictated that females were to be subservient, compliant, and certainly NOT sexual in any way that was not connected with procreating children.

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Lucy Before…

What is interesting in the above picture is how Lucy’s head appears to be disembodied, the rest of Lucy’s body hidden. It’s an interesting use of foreshadowing, given Lucy’s ultimate fate.

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Lucy After…

However, Lucy “breaks” the rules and is “punished” by becoming a cursed, hyper-sexed creature motivated by a thirst for blood. The erotic overtones are hard to miss. At the same time, Lucy’s transformation into a vampire also mocks Victorian convention and especially when we see Lucy returning to her crypt holding an infant in her arms, no doubt her next meal. This is mockery at its most grotesque.

Turning to the dress itself, the dominating feature that one cannot fail to see is the large lace collar that’s vaguely reminiscent of a large Elizabethan ruff. Emphasizing the head, the first thing that came to mind when we first saw it was the head of John the Baptist on a platter. On one level it made for some interesting horror movie theatrics but on another level, it was a bit disturbing.

 

Turning to the dress itself, below is probably some of the historical inspiration for the Lucy wedding dress:

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Michael Conrad Hirt, Margarete Brömsem, 1613

The above portrait captures many of the elements in the Lucy wedding dress although the collar/ruff on the Lucy wedding dress is circular. This is not a particularly flattering look but then again the 17th Century is not one of our most favorite periods for style so take this with a grain of salt. 🙂

And of course, things would not be complete without some more views of the dress:

Lucy, white funeral/wedding dress worn by Frost in Bram Stoker's Dracula. side front view.:

Once again, before…

Dracula Wedding/Burial dress:

And after…

Dracula:

Full Frontal View

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Concept Artwork by Eiko Ishioka

While the Lucy Wedding dress is fairly ahistorical from a style perspective, it nevertheless achieves the primary goal of adding impact to the characters and moving the story forward- the goal of costuming in any production- and it does so in a spectacular way. No matter how we feel about the scenes with Lucy becoming a vampire, it cannot be denied that it has a powerful impact on the viewer.

And For Some More Dracula…Part 3

In the past two installments, we took a really good look at Mina Harker’s wardrobe and pointed out the historical elements. Now we enter an area that is, admittedly, more fantastical. Given the movie’s nature and theme, this is only understandable and especially since it taps into the more erotic elements of the vampire mythos and especially those elements that have grown around the Bram Stoker version.

First we turn to Lucy Westenra who, in contrast with the more virtuous Mina, oozes sexuality and breaks every rule of Victorian Era propriety and naturally, Lucy’s wardrobe reflects this. First we start with two dresses that are somewhat tame with just a hint with the off-the-shoulder sleeves:

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Lucy’s dress was designated as the “Snake Dress” by the Costume Designer because of the decorative trim pattern. Also, as an aside, Mina’s dress on the right only shows up briefly and there’s no other documentation or pictures of it.

Here’s a better view of the Snake Dress:

cap009This appears to be an attempt at an evening dress and while it’s somewhat suggestive of the 1890s, it just doesn’t work right. Combining a off-the-shoulder neckline with full Gigot or leg of mutton sleeves appears awkward and simply doesn’t work style-wide.

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Day Dress, English, c. 1816 – 1821; Victoria & Albert Museum (T.55-1934)

d6590603c00bc9569ea24835bea4d348Above, we see Lucy in a dress that’s more reminiscent of the Romantic Era of the 1820s – 1830s and especially with the sleeves which are a combination of the Demi-Gigot and Marie sleeves. The off-the-shoulder neckline would most likely be seen with evening dresses and ball gowns although it sometimes showed up in day dresses. Here are a couple of examples:

Demi-Gigot SleevesThe contrast between the demure Mina and the more forward Lucy and it shows in the dress. In both shots, Mina is covered up (especially in the one above).

Now, the bring things up just a bit, we have this:

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Lucy is now in thrall to Dracula who is slowly turning her into a vampire and her outfit definitely screams that at the audience. Color-wise, this is not really a good match for a red head but, as more than one commentator has noted, it was probably selected because it shows up nicely for the night scenes. In terms of Victorian morality, Lucy has definitely gone off the rails here. Can we say “Vamp”? 🙂

And now for what is probably what is the most disturbing dress (at least for us) in the whole film: Lucy’s wedding dress. Here are the concept sketches:

eiko_ishioka_dracula_1The dress is an ocean of layered white fabric, tulle, and lace topped off by an extremely wide stiff lace collar reminiscent of an Elizabethan ruff. This dress oozes the concept of the virginal white wedding dress and it’s impossible for the viewer to miss.

In this picture, we see it in its most innocent guise when Dr Seward visits Lucy while she is being fitted for the dress:

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Lucy Bridal1Unfortunately, because these are screen captures, the dress is not that clear but one can still see the elements and especially the close, upright collar that was typical of many 1890s dresses. Here’s a closer view of the collar:

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The seeming very picture of innocence…

Here we see the pearl choker necklace, or “dog collar”, characteristic of 1890s style.

Now we shift to a darker guise after Lucy seemingly dies from being drained of her blood by Dracula. Lucy is then interred in a crypt wearing the wedding dress. However, as we find out, she’s now a vampire herself:

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Lucy, now deceased…or is she?

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The vampire Lucy stopped short by the crucifix.

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Vampire Lucy attempts to use her charms on her helpless bridegroom Arthur.

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These images pretty much demonstrate the horror that has befallen poor Lucy and the dress underscores this dramatically. From what is supposed to represent the epitome of innocence and beauty has been transformed into a grotesque garment of horror. Here, the costume designer has succeeded brilliantly and it definitely supports the impact of the story.

In our next post we’ll be winding everything up so stay tuned and we hope we didn’t shock you too badly. 🙂

To be continued…

Lily Absinthe Takes a Look at the Movie Dracula

When we originally wrote this back in 2015, we aimed to take a deep dive into some aspects of the costuming from the Francis Ford Coppola version of Dracula  and while we think we did a fairly decent job of it, perhaps we were a bit harsh. Over the fullness of time, we’ve tempered out opinions somewhat when it comes to film and TV costuming and we tend to take a more generous view- it’s entertainment and we get it! 😁 So let’s take a look…


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or a change of pace, today we’re going to take a look at period costume in a horror movie and in particular, Frances Ford Coppola’s Dracula. Released in 1991, Dracula was a fresh take on the Bram Stocker’s 1897 novel of the same name. The costumes were designed by Eiko Ishioka and the film won an Oscar Award for Costume design. Our focus is going to be mostly on the Victorian side of the costumes and to being, while they are rooted in styles characteristic of the late 19th Century, they also incorporate some non-period elements. Finally, it must be noted that most of the action is supposed to occur in the year 1897.

We’ll begin with what is probably the most iconic dress of the movie, Mina Harker’s green dress. First, we have the costume sketch…

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And then, the finished product…

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Looking at this dress, the most significant thing that stands out is that the dress style is about a decade too early. The bustle and train give the dress a silhouette more more appropriate to the late 1880s. By the 1890s, and especially 1897, the bustle/train had disappeared and the overall dress silhouette had become vertical.

The color choice, however is good one and it provides a clear, light color that stands in contrast to the people around her who are dressed in a dark, drab/muddy palette. It also must be noted that it picks up tones of the earlier dress worn by Elizabeta in the early prologue scene (although that is sometimes hard to immediately see in varying lighting):

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From the Hollywood Costume Exhibit. Unfortunately, the lighting was not the best here.

From the Hollywood Costume Exhibit. Unfortunately, the lighting was not the best here.

 Below are a few more scenes with the green dress:

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minawalking_smallHere we see more details of the front of the dress. The shirtwaist/coat combination was very common during the late 1880s mostly as a faux shirtwaist/jacket that was actually one unified bodice. The other element that dates this dress style to the late 1880s are the sleeves. During this time, the sleeve caps either smoothly integrated with the bodice or there was a slight “kickout” or puff on the top of the sleeve cap, a precursor to the leg of mutton or “balloon” sleeves characteristic of the mid 1890s. Below are some examples of dresses from the late 1880s:

Petersons August 1886

Peterson’s Magazine, August 1886.

Petersons September 1886

Peterson’s Magazine, September 1886.

Fashion Plate, c. 1886

Fashion Plate, c. 1886

As can be seen from the above plates, the faux open outer jacket with a faux shirtwaist or similar was one characteristic of the late 1880s. Also, one can still see small bustles and trains and while the silhouette has become somewhat vertical, it’s not completely there yet, in much the same way with Mina’s green day dress. Now, lets take a look at the 1890s:

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The Delineator, June 1897

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The Delineator, January 1897

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The Delineator, December 1898

From the above, we can see that the sleeve caps have increased in size to the “leg of mutton” style. Moreover, the skirts are even and have an even, cone-like silhouette.

To be continued…


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