This is an interesting little video that we came across while researching something completely different (a not unusual occurrence). One of the featured items is a dress that was created in 1922 by Paul Poiret. Check it out!
Oh, and here’s the dress:
Paul Poiret, Dress, 1922; Metropolitan Museum of Art (2007.146)
Finding optimal mantle designs requires the right combination of fit and style, something that’s not always easy to achieve. Below is a prototype of a mantle based on a pattern that was drafted from an original 1880s mantle. The original mantle was fairly small so we scaled it up for a size 44 bust, a process complicated by the fact that the sleeves are actually set into the side/front and side/read seams rather than simply attaching to the armscye like a conventional sleeve.
The back is fairly roomy and can accommodate smaller bustles.
The under sleeves form “wings” that extend from the side seams.
The lining- the sleeves are lines separately before installation into the outside fashion fabric shell. The remainder of the lining is formed into a shell that’s like the outer shell only it has no sleeves.
To give structure and shape to the lapels, there’s an underlayer of Hymo canvas interfacing and the roll lines are reinforced with twill tape. Here’s the original toille:
The front is fairly roomy, allowing enough room to create lapels. If lapels are not desired, the front can be trimmed back. Also, a wide variety of collar styles can also be added- it’s all a matter of personal preference.
The sleeve caps have some ease.
The winged sleeves. We’ll be posting some more pictures of the sleeve details in future posts.
T this gown *is* my future! I’ve lifted a pattern, sourced the silk, now to make one inspired by C.F. Himself, hoping to find some secrets in this gown in our museum collection. Um, in my spare time. 🙂
There’s always a client gown that I’m stitching on in here, hopefully missing all the pins in the process!
One of the basic building blocks of any period style is “Structure”…which is what each of these images represent. Our gowns are made to be worn with a proper understructure, and I take it upon myself to make sure that those structures are beautiful. Oh, and by the way, I prefer wearing my corset to modern lingerie any day!