From the Atelier – Our Design Philosophy

Our passion to help set the standard for reproducing late 19th Century garments begins with an understanding of all the details found in original/extant garments. Often, when we look at reproduction garments (film, reenactment, old time dress-up), we notice that they often repeat the mistakes found in tired, mass-produced reproduction patterns. To us, the only true way of recreating late 19th Century garments are by starting with an examination of original/extant garments. All our designs are based on originals garments and probably 80% of those specific designs are based on extant garments in our collection; if you view our social media (Facebook, Instagram), you will see our designs next to the originals that inspired them.

Side-by-side comparison. Now, bear in mind that our designs are not always line-for-line reproductions but rather we use various period design elements and combine them to create more of “inspired-by” creations.

This is the heart of the patterning/design operation- pattern pieces are checked by placing on a mannequin as well as “walking” the pieces and truing up the edges. Yes, this takes time and effort but it avoids mistakes and saves a lot of time and eliminates a lot of grief in the end. Trust us… In future posts, we’ll have more on our design philosophy.


Black…Not Just for Mourning

Wearing black wasn’t just for Mourning, it was considered an elegant color for fancy wear or even a wedding…a “best” dress. The dyes of the 19th century were often (but not always) “weighted” with lead, arsenic, and other lovely chemicals and metals…mostly for the purpose of keeping the color intact.

This lovely late 1890s bodice was obviously a favorite, there’s some wear, a self-fabric patch, and only the lace is a bit brownish and faded. Styles like this were common and sometimes were worn with different skirts for a bit of variety. Printed and colored linings were popular as well, sometimes “that’s all they had” or “pretty on the inside”. This one is heavily boned with baleen (what they called “whalebone”) and even though it was stiffened, a woman would have still worn this over a boned corset. Just a sweet example of What She Wore.


Design Element: Harmonious Color Combinations

Inspiration often comes from unexpected sources and this post is one of those…Recently, we came across some pictures featuring an circa early 1950s evening dress designed by a one Fred Perlberg that was featured on the Augusta Auctions website. While this dress seemingly has nothing to do with late 19th Century fashion, it does illustrate an interesting point in regard to the use of color in fashion design and especially when applied to the 1870s and 1880s: specifically, monochromatic colors were used in combination with each other. Essentially, monochromatic colors involved the use of tints, shades and tones of one color and in this case, green, as illustrated below:

In this example, we see an incredibly rich dark green combined with a much lighter shade of green- basically a tint where white has been added to the dark green. On a practical level, this is probably the easiest way to create an interesting dress design. Below is an example of an 1880s day dress that we made, using a similar color scheme:

In this example, we’ve used three distinct tints of blue:

The Perlberg dress is a fairly simple example but it gets the idea across very directly. Here’s another example depicted with the first and fourth figures in this December 1880 fashion plate from Godey’s Magazine:

Finally, here’s a little more complex example with this mid to late 1880s day dress:

Day Dress, c. 1883 – 1889; Goldstein Museum of Design (1963.007.002a-b)

We hope that you’ve enjoyed this tiny exploration in the use of monochromatic colors as a design tool in fashion. Stay tuned for more!


Looking Back…

Plummy pleatastic silk and very red hair! That was me, many years ago at Old Tucson Studios. Now I’m just a brunette behind the machine and happily covered in thread snips.


In The Atelier

Working on a few projects at a time keeps me interested…this is one of several reproduction gown projects that I’m working on at present. Only the foundation seams are machined, and frankly, I’m too far into this gown to take shortcuts! Have you ever had to take a vacation from a project? I sure have, with this one, but I’m determined to finish.