From the Atelier – Some Inspiration

She’s on my “some day” list…or whenever I can score some ever-elusive emerald green silk taffeta for my 1870s fashion moment. Meanwhile, she hangs out at the Musee d’Orsay, larger than life.

Here’s another view:

Alexandre Cabanel, Comtesse de Keller 1873


From the Atelier – A Paisley Tea Gown

In a previous post, we looked at a paisley house dress/tea gown from the mid-1890s and noted that the paisley shawls that were a staple of 1850s-60s fashion would up being re-purposed into dresses during the 1870s, 80s, and even 90s. Here’s one such example with this c. 1885-89 tea gown.

Tea Gown, c. 1885-1889; Kent State University Museum; 1995.017.0016

Although the design makes it look like there’s a robe over a separate under-dress, it’s really all a one-piece construction.

And the back is pretty incredible:

Of course, without physically inspecting it, it’s difficult to tell how exactly the paisley shawl might have been incorporated (or if a shawl was actually used versus yardage) but it is somewhat logical given the extensive use of a solid color as an underlayer. The investigation continues… 😎


From the Atelier – What’s On…

Fall is definitely here, even in Southern California and that means the heat has backed off, the days are growing shorter, and the light is definitely different. It also means that we’re working on more projects (no swimming pool to distract us). For me, I’ve been going back and forth between a Mid-1880s dress and a men’s suit. I’ve been pretty bad with the progress pictures but here’s a couple from my work on the suit pants.

Chalking out some lining pieces…

And finished the right and left pocket layouts…they’re quire elaborate. Now to mount them to the right and left front pant pieces… 🙂 And here’s some pictures of the work I did on the vest…

The vest lapels. Lots of pad stitching going on and it will only get worse with the coat. The outcome is really nice but it really takes a toll on my fingers.

Right front side of the vest. There’s more to follow and I’ll try to get some more pictures so everything is a but more coherent. 🙂


From the Atelier – Fall is Here…

Happy First Day of Autumn! To celebrate this spooky pumpkin season, I thought I’d share one of the first ladies that started our collection in bright copper pumpkin silk faille. She’s all original, no shattering, and is fetchingly balanced on one of our own bustles. She’s homemade or Dressmaker made, completely hand finished and little to no signs of wear. Was she a wedding or special occasion dress? Only the Ghost Seamstress knows…