And a little more progress on the Eton jacket- the next step of attaching the collars will be an interesting on in that the top collar is attached to the facing and the under collar is attached to the jacket body/shell. First, to attach the top collar to the facings:
The view from outside- this will ultimately make up the “inside front” of the jacket and the lapels will be facing outwards.
The view from inside. Because of the curve of the collar, it’s necessary to clip notches (carefully) along the seam allowance.
A close-up of the inside of the top collar.
Next stop, attaching the undercollar to the jacket shell… 🙂
More progress on the Eton jacket…the pad stitching has done a number on my fingers so progress has been a bit slow. I’m trying out some new tailoring techniques, at least to me- the fabric is a herringbone weave teal linen with the unfortunately property of REALLY stretching so it’s presented some challenges that I didn’t anticipate. But, nevertheless, I’ve completed the outer shell and the collar parts. The next step will be working with the facings and the lining…
The lapels have been steamed and are hanging very nicely. Someone who looked at my previous Eton jacket project stated that the lapels were “too stiff”- well, yes, that’s exactly THE POINT! 🙂 What you want to avoid are the lapels flopping about- rather, you want a degree of stiffness so they will maintain their shape, especially since the Eton jacket is meant to worn open.
The undercollar was fairly labor-intensive. I first had to carefully cut out the undercollar itself, purposely making the edges about 1/4″ less than the top collar so as to allow for the “turn of the cloth”- essentially to ensure that the material on the undercollar remains hidden when the collar is constructed.
The right side/fashion fabric side of the undercollar. You can see the pad stitching, along with my mistakes which will all be hidden once the collar is completely assembled. 😉 Well, that’s all for now but there will be more soon.
More progress on the Eton Jacket…and my fingers are just about done in! 😉
Another Eaton jacket in the works…I’m incorporating more tailoring techniques in this one so we’ll see how it turns out. 🙂
Laying out some of the fashion fabric. The lighting is really poor- the fabric is actually a teal linen.
Chalking out the pieces- The pattern pieces are actually slopers so I have to manually add the seam allowance which in this case is 1/2 inch.
Creating the canvases for the front left and right.
In out last post, we assembled the pieces for both the exterior fashion layer and the interior lining/facing layers for the Eton jacket.
In full disclosure, we’d like to say that this project has been an interesting learning experience in that it’s demonstrated to us that there is a lot more involved to drafting a pattern than simply drawing lines on paper following some formula, cutting out the pieces, and putting it together. A lot more. The one thing that nobody really ever discussed in pattern drafting and overall development is that once a pattern is constructed and tested out with one or more toilles, there’s still the matter of working out just how exactly the garment is going to be constructed. Of course, it’s assumed that one just knows all the relevant techniques and that bears little or nor discussion but the reality is with historical garments, there’s a lot that’s become obscure or even lost over the years. Fortunately, there are a number of references out there so it’s not an impossible task but it’s one that’s going require a lot of practice and work to master. So with that said, let’s proceed to the next steps…🙂
We now arrive at one of the most crucial stages- assembling the jacket body.
A lot more pressing is in order but overall we’re pleased with how it came together.
And now onto constructing the cuffs:
The decision to utilize turn-back cuffs was purely an aesthetic one and we could have just as easily used a number of different styles… 🙂 Here’s the cuffs pinned to the sleeves:
And voila, sleeves!
And finally, the sleeves are attached and set in the proper position. All that remains is some final touch-ups.
(To be continued…)