vic

From the Atelier – Taking a Break

/ Karin McKechnie-Lid / 1 Comment

It’s been a busy weekend here while we gear up for an October film production as well as create some personal dresses for the Fall. Yes, it’s the first day of autumn although it’s sometimes hard to tell out here in the Southwest (although the shifting light is one giveaway). While taking a break, I cam across this amazing dress mid-1890s wrapper on the Augusta Auctions website (way too tempting, I should stick to museum websites):

Wrapper, c. 1895, Wool Paisley; August Auctions

The interesting thing about this wrapper is how it incorporates a paisley design reminiscent of the paisley shawls that were in style during the 1840s-1860s. A lot of these were later re-purposed in earlier 1870s dresses but I have never seen this with an 1890s dress design. Here’s some close-ups:

Although the August Auctions website indicates this wrapper as being from the mid-1890s, it’s safe to say that it’s probably from 1895-96 (although we’ve been wrong before). This wrapper definitely falls into the “house dress/work dress/morning dress” category in that it’s more loose-fitting, front-buttoning and made of a wool flannel-like material (but yes, the woman wearing this dress would be wearing a corset). From the bodice details and the trim strips running down the front of the wrapper and the waist, it’s evident that these elements were purpose-designed and constructed for this dress style rather than being some sort of conversion.

Turning to the skirt, we see the paisley design in its fullness and it would have very well utilized a re-purposed paisley shawl (although Adam believes that this was all new-made). Of course, without actually examining the garment in person, it’s hard to be sure one way or another… 🙂 Well, back to work but this one will definitely stay in my mind!

 

The Power of the Pleat!

/ Karin McKechnie-Lid / Leave a comment

Behold the power of a pleat! It’s not the fold itself, it’s…the understitching. When a pleated ruche is placed in directions that defy gravity, understitching is required. Invisible handwork like this requires me to use a darning needle for (long and thin) so I can sit on the floor with the hem closer to my eye level. For me, using this technique allows me to tack each pleated corner so it stays in place. Why so particular? These diagonal ones in the front will take the brunt of walking, but the piped longer ones on the skirt back and train will flutter, because their hem is free.

Become a Patron!

More Mid-Bustle Style

/ Adam Lid / Leave a comment

Joseph Scheurenberg, Confidences, 1878

Today we take take our examination of Mid-Bustle Era/Natural style further with this circa 1879-1881 day dress:

Day Dress, c. 1879-1881; Metropolitan Museum of Art (C.I.50.105.17)

This dress is constructed of old gold/champagne-colored silk taffeta for the skirt and and bodice body combined with black silk taffeta on the sleeves and parts of the bodice. The old gold/champagne color combined with neutral black make a harmonizing combination and especially on the bodice. The straight lines of the natural form/Mid-Bustle silhouette are given further emphasis with the vertical stripes of the bodice. The use of the same black silk taffeta to trim the skirt and hem finish the dress in a pleasing manner.

From the above picture, we can see that while there is some bustling, it’s pretty restrained and really only services to support the train at the bottom. Also, in the above picture, it’s interesting to see the use of a polonaise-style bodice that is long in front, tapering to waist level in the back and ending with a large bow.

As can be seen from the above two pictures, the train is more restrained than the dress featured yesterday. Looking at the rear, the use of black taffeta for the bodice back draw the viewer’s eye towards the waist with its bow and draping that lead the eye further down towards the train. This is contrast to the front where the viewer’s eye is drawn in the opposite direction towards the bodice top and neckline.

Although this dress consists of separate skirt and bodice, their lines emphasize the upright, cylindrical shape characteristic of this period.  About the only flaw we can find is with the rear train and box- it all appears very untidy BUT this may have more to do with the staging of the dress on the mannequin rather than any inherent flaw in the dress itself.  Stay tuned as we unearth more styles from this brief but interesting period.

Become a Patron!

Disapproving Corgi…

/ Karin McKechnie-Lid / Leave a comment

Fiona is helping me finish a bustle gown today…I’m sure she’s jealous! This should be finished by tomorrow night so look for it at our trunk show this Friday. 😁

Become a Patron!

An Early 1890s Design From Maison Felix

/ Adam Lid / Leave a comment

When it comes to late 19th Century couture, Maison Felix is often overlooked but it was a force the equal of Worth, Doucet, and Pingat. Here’s an afternoon dress from circa 1890-1891:

Felix, Afternoon Dress, c. 1890-1891; Albany Institute of History and Art (1946.56.2ab)

This afternoon dress is an interesting style, drawing on 18th Century elements, especially in the use of a garnet-colored silk with a gray floral pattern styled to read as a robe and combined with a large lace inset on the front and sleeves. The flowing robe-like lines also hint at a tea gown but the silhouette is far too sharply defined: it’s clear that this garment was meant for wear with a corset and accompanying underpinnings. However, there’s nothing to say that this dress couldn’t have served as an at-home dress… 😄

Below are side profile and rear views. Although it’s hard to tell with the museum staging, we do believe that this is definite a very late 1880s/early 1890s dress. There is definitely a train although it’s not that prominent while at the same time, the sleeve heads have some ease- a harbinger of styles to come. 😉

Below is a fashion plate from the August 1889 issue of Peterson’s Magazine that further illustrates this style, especially with the figure second from the left:

We hope you’ve enjoyed this little view of late 1880s/early 1890s style.

Become a Patron!