A View Of The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute

Although not directly tied in with late 19th Century fashion, this video is still fascinating in that it gives a behind the scenes view of fashion conservation the preparations that go on to get a garment ready for going on public display:



Nadezhda Lamanova, Part 2

In our last post, we took a brief look at the career(s) and work of the Russian designer Nadezhda Lamanova as she built a reputation as a designer of Haute Couture for Russia’s upper classes and subsequently reinvented herself as an avant garde designer for the masses in the new revolutionary Russia. Now we’re going to take another look at Lamanova’s designs prior to 1917. To start, here is one particularly striking example of a circa 1910 – 1911 evening dress:

Nadezhda Lamanova, Evening Dress, c. 1911-1912; State Hermitage Museum (ЭРТ-18063)

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Lamanova_Green Dress2

And here’s some details of the embroidered decoration:

The above dress design reflects the shift from the earlier tightly structured silhouette of the S-bend corset towards a more vertical silhouette employing a tubular dress shape. Make no mistake about it, the underpinnings were still there but now the dress flowed loosely in a manner reminiscent of the Classical Grecian Chiton.

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The dress itself is two layers, the underlayer composed of a turquoise/jade green satin and an overlayer consisting of a black chiffon embroidered a floral motif consisting of the flowers and leaves of chrysanthemums. The embroidery itself is in a golden-green silk and gold thread. One can see the combination of different textures, contrasting colors and a separate overlayer with metallic embroidery creates a three dimensional effect to the dress and this is especially evident when one looks at the train. The above pictures simply do not do justice to the dress.

Now, for something a little different from the Mid-1890s. This is a visiting dress that belonged to the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna:

Nadezhda Lamanova, Visiting Dress, c. 1890s; Hermitage Museum (ЭРТ-9404)

 

Day Dress Princess Line Mid 1890s c. 1894-1897 Visiting

Day Dress Princess Line Mid 1890s c. 1894-1897 Visiting

Close-Up

The above visiting dress is from the mid-1890s, most likely 1894-1897 as characterized by the leg of mutton or Gigot sleeve style. Structured as a princess line dress, it was constructed from an ivory/cream-colored silk velvet. The dress features a decorative pattern of lines of green and silver metallic sequins that have been stitched in such a was as to create a vine motif; the vertical lines of sequins suggest some a trellis of sorts which serves to accentuate the vertical lines/silhouette of the dress.

The above examples are a tiny fraction of Lamanova’s output and they reflect the major fashion trends of the times and while much of what she created was fairly mainstream conventional as in the case of the above visiting dress, there were also attempts to push boundaries such as in the case of the above green evening dress. It wasn’t until after the revolution that Lamanova came into her own as a designer, creating ready-to-wear designs for the masses while at the same time creating avant garde designs. Lamanova is a designers that we should know more about.



Helldorado Days- Day 2

Today in Tombstone once again began grey and overcast with the threat of rain. After dressing, we left the house and headed in to town. Naturally, we took an umbrella for insurance but as fate would have it, there was no need for it. The weather gods decided to smile favorably upon us and by the time we had arrived in town, about 11:30 am, it had begun to clear with the sun coming out, accompanied by a gentle breeze. In short, it was a perfect day for being in town. 🙂

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Getting ready…yes, although we design for the 19th Century, we’re still rooted in the 21st Century.

And here are a couple images of us, now all ready to go to town:

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Ready to go to town…I even brought an umbrella “just in case”… 🙂

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For starters, we decided to check out the Helldorado Fashion Show. Sponsored  by a local volunteer group, the fashion show presented a variety of 1880s fashions reflecting their different skill levels and ideas. Now bear in mind that the participants are all volunteers and their presentations reflect a variety of skill levels.

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Competition was keen and each participant went all-out put on their best presentation. We commend everyone who took the time and made the effort. Only through constant effort and experimentation can we all grow.

Afterwards, we wandered Allen Street and meet up with some good friends of ours who were spending the day in Tombstone:

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Later on, we met up with some folks from the group Tombstone Legends:

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Afterwards, we attended a delightful one-man performance about the life and times of Doc Holliday that was presented by our good friend Steven Keith. Set against the backdrop of a faro game that the audience participates in, Mr. Keith presents another side to the life of Doc Holliday that one rarely sees and he does raise some interesting questions. It was definitely an enjoyable experience even though you had to keep an eye on doc as he worked the cards… 🙂

Picture of a previous performance- Unfortunately, I was unable to get a picture when we were there.

Overall, it was a great day and it only underscores why we keep coming back to Tombstone so often. There were many sights to see and we are pleased that there were a lot of visitors in town- after the financial upheavals of 2008 – 2011, tourism in Tombstone suffered greatly and the associated industries along with it. It’s great to see that there’s a bit of a revival going on and we sincerely hope the best for the future.

Nadezhda Lamanova- Between Two Worlds, Part 2

In our last post, we took a brief look at the career(s) and work of the Russian designer Nadezhda Lamanova as she built a reputation as a designer of Haute Couture for Russia’s upper classes and subsequently reinvented herself as an avant garde designer for the masses in the new revolutionary Russia. Now we’re going to take another look at Lamanova’s designs prior to 1917. To start, here is one particularly striking example from circa 1910 – 1914:

Lamanova_Green Dress1

Evening Dress, Nadezhda Lamanova, c. 1912 – 1914; State Hermitage Museum

Lamanova_Green Dress2

Rear View

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Side Profile

The above dress design reflects the shift from the earlier tightly structured silhouette of the S-bend corset towards a more vertical silhouette employing a tubular dress shape. Make no mistake about it, the underpinnings were still there but now the dress flowed loosely in a manner reminiscent of the Classical Grecian Chiton.

The dress itself is two layers, the underlayer composed of a turquoise/jade green satin and an overlayer consisting of a black chiffon embroidered a floral motif consisting of the flowers and leaves of chrysanthemums. The embroidery itself is in a golden-green silk and gold thread. One can see the combination of different textures, contrasting colors and a separate overlayer with metallic embroidery creates a three dimensional effect to the dress and this is especially evident when one looks at the train. The above pictures simply do not do justice to the dress.

Now, for something a little different from the Mid-1890s. This is a visiting dress that belonged to the Empress:

Day Dress Princess Line Mid 1890s c. 1894-1897 Visiting

Visiting Dress, Nadezhda Lamanova, Mid 1890s; State Hermitage Museum

Day Dress Princess Line Mid 1890s c. 1894-1897 Visiting

Day Dress Princess Line Mid 1890s c. 1894-1897 Visiting

Close-Up

The above visiting dress is from the mid-1890s, characterized by the leg of mutton or Gigot sleeve style and it’s a princess line dress. According to the description, the fashion fabric is of an ivory/cream (depending on the light) silk velvet. Metallic sequins have been stitched to create a vine motif with vertical lines of sequins suggesting some a trellis of sorts which serves to accentuate the vertical lines/silhouette of the dress.

The above examples are a tiny fraction of Lamanova’s output and they reflect the major fashion trends of the times and while much of what she created was fairly mainstream conventional as in the case of the above visiting dress, there were also attempts to push boundaries such as in the case of the above green ballgown. It wasn’t until after the revolution that Lamanova came into her own as a designer, creating ready-to-wear designs for the masses while at the same time creating avant garde designs. Lamanova is a designers that we should know more about.

Postscript: We find it amazing that so many dresses of the early 1900s have managed to survive revolutionary turmoil and two world wars. 🙂