Some Evening Wear From The Late 1870s

To continue the late 1870s theme, we’ll now take a look at some late 1870s evening wear. 🙂 “Evening wear” is a somewhat generic catch-all term for dresses that were intended for wear at various formal events held in the evening, whether they be balls, dinners, or receptions. To start, we have this circa 1877 evening dress:

Evening Dress, c. 1877; Museo de Historia Mexicana

Unfortunately, not a lot is known about this dress, at least from what we could gather from the Museo de Historia Mexicana except to say that that was possibly made by Worth based on the style. In any event, it does have the distinct “Natural Form” silhouette from the late 1870s and has any characteristics of the princess line dress. Like many dresses of this era, this dress emphasizes vertical lines, aided by the use of a gold-striped ivory-colored silk taffeta. Framing the front skirt are two rows of ivory silk satin pleated trim that run somewhat asymmetrical.  Somewhat jarringly, at the top of the bodice front below the neckline is a strip of what appears to be a gold-striped white silk with thin horizontal strips of a darker shade of gold. Design-wise, it’s hard to understand its purpose. Finally, the neck is trimmed in white ruching.

Next is this circa 1877-1878 reception dress from Worth:

Worth, Ensemble-Reception Dress/Evening Bodice, c. 1877-1878; Cincinnati Art Museum (1986.1200a-c)

This is an interesting dress that we’ve posted previously, pointing out that this dress is an ensemble dress that had two bodices for daytime and evening wear. The overskirt is constructed of a dark blue silk satin while the underskirt is actually two layers consisting of a solid ivory-colored pleated inner layer constructed of silk satin and a fringed floral pattern outer later that’s swagged. Below is a closer view of the skirts:

Next, we have this circa 1877 dinner dress from Worth:

Worth, Dinner Dress, c. 1877; Metropolitan Museum of Art (C.I.69.33.3a, b)

This is another brilliant illustration of the late 1870s silhouette. The bodice and overskirt are constructed of a gold-colored silk jacquard in a floral pattern combined with a pistachio-green front underskirt that appears to be made of silk taffeta. Below is a closer view of the silk jacquard:

Close-up of fashion fabric.

Below are views of the rear train. The train has an underlayer of the same green pistachio used in the front underskirt and it’s shown off through a series of folds. It’s an interesting design effect. Below are some more pictures that show off the train:

Rear View

Close-up of rear

The above pictures give a really dramatic view of the train, especially with the rear bow giving the illusion of being the only support for the gold jacquard train. The dresses shown above are only a small sampling of what was out there as illustrated in this fashion plate from the January 1878 issue of Peterson’s Magazine and for those wishing to recreate the era, there’s a wide variety of choices available. Enjoy!

From the January 1878 issue of Peterson’s Magazine.



And Now For A Tea Gown From Maison Worth

Today’s video feature is a tea gown from circa 1893 that was made by Maison Worth and worn by either Helen Olivia Brice (1871–1950) or Margaret Katherine Brice (1873–1911):

Here’s are a few stills of the dress:

Worth, Tea Gown, c. 1893; Museum of the City of New York (MCNY 42.146.10).

As expected with a tea gown, it has a relatively unstructured silhouette and appears to be one-piece with no distinct waist. It’s unclear whether the gown is a princess line but given the nature of the tea gown style, probably so. While the sleeves are gigot or leg-of-mutton, they’re relatively muted fitting in perfectly with the 1893 time frame. The fashion fabric is a voided velvet with a dark blue silk velvet pile combined with a lighter purple silk satin to create a floral pattern. The bodice top is cut on a curve, reminiscent of early 16th Century Renaissance styles, and the area between above is filled in with guipure lace going all the way to the neck. Similar lace is also used on the lower sleeves to create a glove-like appearance. The close-up of the bodice below gives a better idea of the fabric:

The fashion fabric takes on a very fluorescent appearance, no doubt designed to make maximum use of the gaslight or early electrical lighting typical of interior lighting during this period.1There are a number of examples of Maison Worth’s work that utilize this fluorescent design effect with the fashion fabric- The Madame Greffuhle tea gown is a good example. The bodice top is trimmed with a strip of gold bullion and above it is the guipure lace insert.

And the interior of the bodice. The bodice is lightly boned and appears to have been flatlined in a pink silk satin combined with an ivory (it looks like a pistachio color but that’s probably the lighting) petersham and bone casings. This tea gown when worn must have been been amazing sight and it’s clear that this was intended for a more formal in-home affair than simply taking tea. 🙂



At The Atelier

Unique extant early 1890s bodice with all over hand embroidery in a figured style with scattered black glass beads and heavy glass ball edging…she’s one of my secret favorites in my collection. No label, very shapely cut. Currently taking notes from her.

 


 


Christmas Not-So-Past

Time spent in Christmas Not-So-Past with a good friend in a small chapel built for a monarch at the Vyne in England.

 

 



Trending for December 1890- Outerwear

Even in Southern California (and Southern Arizona, for that matter), December can get cold and when it does, our thoughts rapidly turn to outerwear.  🙂 Today we turn to the December 1890 issue of Demorest’s Family Magazine:

Decidedly the most popular outdoor garment this season is the jacket, which is worn by ladies of all ages, whether of petite or portly figure. All styles agree in having the fitted back, differing only in the use or omission of plaits or lap at the side-form and back seams, and the majority have tight-fitting fronts, either single or double-breasted, the loose fronted “Reefer,” and the open, rolling fronts displaying a vest, being the exceptions.

Here’s some examples of styles pictured in Demorest’s:

One of the more interesting and eminently practical is the “Reefer” Jacket:


Here’s another view of the jacket style as part of a complete outfit from the December issue of Peterson’s Magazine:

Finally, just to round things off here are some pictures of extant originals:

Jacket, c. 1891; Auction in AntiqueDress.com

Skirt Suit Jacket, c. 1895; Victoria & Albert Museum (T.173&A-1969)

Afternoon Jacket, Emile Pingat, c. 1885 – 1890; Metropolitan Museum of Art (2009.300.76)

Jackets were an integral part of any wardrobe of the period, ranging from the purely functional to the extremely fashionable, and there’s a wide range of possibilities for those recreating historical fashions.