Lily Absinthe Takes A Look At Chartreuse

Color is one of the basic building blocks in fashion design and we are constantly on the lookout for colors that will enhance the overall aesthetics of our designs. In the course of researching some dresses, we came across a dress that utilizes chartreuse, ochre/gold, and green for dramatic effect and we thought that we would share it with you:  🙂

Day Dress 1870s

Day Dress, c. Early 1870s; Centre de Documentació i Museu Tèxtil, Barcelona, Spain (11899)

Day Dress 1870s

Frontal Close-Up

The chartreuse base fabric appears to be a faille and the trim is a combination of yellow ochre and light green/chartreuse (it’s hard to tell exactly from the picture).

Day Dress 1870s

Side Profile

Day Dress 1870s

Rear View; Unfortunately, the skirt is discolored, most likely from poor storage at some point.

And here are some more details:

The basic fashion fabric is what appears to be a chartreuse-colored silk faille with the bodice and skirt front trimmed in yellow ochre and light green; the hem is trimmed in four rows of knife pleating. Also, the hem guard appears to be in green that matches the trim (you can see the hem guard peeking out from beneath the bottom row of knife pleating.

Finally, here’s a rough color palette:

 Pallette2

The above is merely one of many different design schemes possible but it’s definitely one on our list. :-).



At The Atelier

I’m still using the same tools from my LA City Calligrapher years…they’re used for pattern drafting now. Same kind of math, just different media.

 



And Something From Maison Worth

Maison Worth has always been a source of inspiration for us and we’re always on the lookout for new (at least to us) designs. Recently, we came across this circa 1902 ball gown/evening dress (the boundary between dress types often seems to be a bit fluid). Unfortunately, not a lot of information is available on it (the Europeana website is a dysfunctional mess) so we’ll have to rely on the pictures themselves. We first start with back and front views:

Worth, Ball Gown, c. 1902; Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti via Europeana Fashion

A floral theme is definitely the focus of this dress style with the an ivory/cream silk satin embroidered with a gold floral pattern. The bottom third of the dress is covered in what appears to be a lace overlay decorated with gold-colored metallic spangles (no doubt these are probably stamped from steel). The bottom lace overlay is blended into the overall design motif and gives the appearance of the flowers and vines emerging from a forest ground cover. In terms of silhouette, this dress follows the graceful lines characteristic of Maison Worth during the late 1890s/early 1900s and the train is graceful but not overpowering. Below is a close-up of the skirt:

Below is a close-up of the lace overlay:

The bodice is an extension of the overall decorative effect, combining the floral and ground cover motifs. The shoulders are given some emphasis with blush-colored tulle and gold-colored lace on the sleeves creates a sleeve effect. Finally, we see sink silk satin running along the neckline and shouldered which combined with the pink sash, create a harmonious three-color combination of pink, gold, and ivory. Below is a close-up of the bodice:

This dress is another nice example of Maison Worth’s designs and follows a similar vein as some of their other works:

Worth, Evening Dress, c. 1902; Fashion Museum Bath

Worth, Evening Gown, c. 1895; Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (2003.288.1-2)

Stay tuned for more!



What’s On…

Spring is coming and things are beginning to look up a bit here in Southern California, especially on the COVID-19 front, and with it, there’s been an uptick in activity here at the atelier. We’re working up some more dress designs for future sale along with digital pattern development, and curated fabric sales. We’re especially excited about developing digit patterns and they’ll be based on originals in our collection. Finally, there’s Angus’ Attic where we’re selling curated fabrics and other odds bits from out atelier. We’d also like to add that I’m the one choosing the silks, so check them out before I start claiming them for my studio. What’s different about what we’re doing? Unlike other “sellers” on other platforms, we actually purchase the silk ahead of time and it’s here at the house already. You’re also not buying from my personal stash (I’m keeping that!), these are just selections that I think are beautiful.

 

 

 



Spring Is Coming…

Day 5 for @pinsent_tailoring #modernlessmarch is: “Peace”. My source for peace of any kind is usually found in a garden or Nature, filled with roses and herbs all sun-warmed and dappled sunlight on silks and sheer cottons. The Impressionists knew this, now we follow in their footsteps with ruffly girly picnics. We SHALL picnic again!
Soon ❤😎