1890s

From the Atelier – Taking a Break

/ Karin McKechnie-Lid / 1 Comment

It’s been a busy weekend here while we gear up for an October film production as well as create some personal dresses for the Fall. Yes, it’s the first day of autumn although it’s sometimes hard to tell out here in the Southwest (although the shifting light is one giveaway). While taking a break, I cam across this amazing dress mid-1890s wrapper on the Augusta Auctions website (way too tempting, I should stick to museum websites):

Wrapper, c. 1895, Wool Paisley; August Auctions

The interesting thing about this wrapper is how it incorporates a paisley design reminiscent of the paisley shawls that were in style during the 1840s-1860s. A lot of these were later re-purposed in earlier 1870s dresses but I have never seen this with an 1890s dress design. Here’s some close-ups:

Although the August Auctions website indicates this wrapper as being from the mid-1890s, it’s safe to say that it’s probably from 1895-96 (although we’ve been wrong before). This wrapper definitely falls into the “house dress/work dress/morning dress” category in that it’s more loose-fitting, front-buttoning and made of a wool flannel-like material (but yes, the woman wearing this dress would be wearing a corset). From the bodice details and the trim strips running down the front of the wrapper and the waist, it’s evident that these elements were purpose-designed and constructed for this dress style rather than being some sort of conversion.

Turning to the skirt, we see the paisley design in its fullness and it would have very well utilized a re-purposed paisley shawl (although Adam believes that this was all new-made). Of course, without actually examining the garment in person, it’s hard to be sure one way or another… 🙂 Well, back to work but this one will definitely stay in my mind!

 

Mid-1890s Style – One Dress

/ Adam Lid / Leave a comment

Mid 1890s styles are very easy to spot with their gigot sleeves and multi-gore skirts. We came across this circa 1895 dinner dress dress on the Augusta Auctions website, one of our go-to dress source outside of museums.

Augusta Auctions

This is an interesting dress in that it utilizes a two-tone color effect, pairing a pea green (medium green) colored skirt and bodice trim with gold-colored sleeves and under-bodice. There’s a definite floral theme running through this with floral embroidery on the skirt as well part of the front bodice. Here’s some more views:

Here are some closer views of the bodice and sleeves. The sleeves are interesting in that the gold-colored fabric has a subtle floral pattern that complements the other floral elements found on the skirt and bodice.

The pea green fashion fabric appears to be made of a silk taffeta with a dull finish that acts as a nice contrasting texture to the gold silk sating of the sleeves.

The sleeve fabric appears to be a silk satin with an embroidered floral design.

And finally, here’s the decorative effect on the skirt itself:

The skirt is also finished off by a back of ruching running along the hemline.

Overall, this dinner dress is elegant but not overdone and definitely sets a level of elegance that might not be on the level worn by one of the 400 but is still up there. Interestingly enough, this dress was made in Boston and while it borrows many French design elements, it’s also restrained. We love the dress!

Black…Not Just for Mourning

/ Karin McKechnie-Lid / Leave a comment

Wearing black wasn’t just for Mourning, it was considered an elegant color for fancy wear or even a wedding…a “best” dress. The dyes of the 19th century were often (but not always) “weighted” with lead, arsenic, and other lovely chemicals and metals…mostly for the purpose of keeping the color intact.

This lovely late 1890s bodice was obviously a favorite, there’s some wear, a self-fabric patch, and only the lace is a bit brownish and faded. Styles like this were common and sometimes were worn with different skirts for a bit of variety. Printed and colored linings were popular as well, sometimes “that’s all they had” or “pretty on the inside”. This one is heavily boned with baleen (what they called “whalebone”) and even though it was stiffened, a woman would have still worn this over a boned corset. Just a sweet example of What She Wore.

Caught On The Streets Of Tombstone

/ Karin McKechnie-Lid / Leave a comment

Caught on the streets of Tombstone…that Dressmaker that hides in #11 and sews all day! 😃 We’ll be returning to the streets of Tombstone after Christmas for a bit.

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