Some More 1896 Style As Featured In La Mode Pratique…

Today as part of our fashions from 1896, featured in La Mode Pratique is another interesting style, in this case a green and black striped day dress.

The dress is described as:

Silk dress of leaf green silk pekin and garnished of a collar and a draped belt of wonderful silk satin. Jabot of light cream lace.

That pretty much sums it up nicely and it’s everything we would have expected. It’s interesting to see the stripe pattern on the skirt- the front is vertical and the sides angled, no doubt because the fabric flows to follow the skirt’s gores. For the bodice, the stripes spiral upward and the stripes become horizontal on the upper sleeves while straightening out on the lower sleeves. Although one would think that the stripes running in all directions would be a confusing, jumbled mess, they’re not. The stripe patterns actually work together to create a harmonious whole. Now to track down some silk pekin… 😉

A Maid Of Honor Dress, 1896 Style…

Recently we came across some of the earliest use of color pictures in a fashion publication with a set of fashion plates dated 1896 from the French fashion publication La Mode Pratique. They are a fascinating cross between a traditional colored fashion plate and a photograph. While we are not experts on early color photography, we can say that we find it fascinating. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot of information out there on the publication but the dress styles depicted in the fashion plates are fascinating. In this post and future posts we’ll be presenting a few of these for your viewing pleasure so enjoy!


Spring is coming and that means weddings…featured in an 1896 issue of the French fashion publication La Mode Pratique, this dress was billed as a Maid of Honor dress although it would have been just as suitable for plain daytime wear:

From the above copy, this dress is described as being made from a “lettuce” green-striped silk pekin with a darker green velvet belt. The bertha and the pleated inner front bodice are a white silk muslin.1Note- This is a very loose translation; our French is not the best so we apologize if something got left out. One interesting thing to note is that pekin fabric is defined as a warp-striped fabric made of various fibers (in this case silk) with different colors and/or weaves form the stripes which are all the same width and evenly spaced. Often pekin would have stripes that would alternate in velvet or gauze and satin.2The Dictionary of textiles, 8th Edition by Phyllis G. Tortora and Ingrid Johnson. As applied to the above illustration, silk pekin is definitely a good choice, giving a wide scope for various effects with colors, textures, and luster. Finally, the hat makes a perfect accompaniment for the dress and the colors harmonize nicely. In contrast with a lot of today’s bridal wear, this dress was clearly meant to carry on long after the wedding was through. 🙂

A Little Turn Of The Century Street Style For The Spring…

Here’s a little street style, 1890s or early 1900s style in New York. It’s not the best picture but it’s obvious that it must be in the warmer months judging from the chiffon day dresses that these two ladies are wearing. As for dating, most likely it’s either late 1890s or perhaps early 1900s- the sleeves are built up but it’s hard to discern the distinct pouter-pigeon look in the bodice so who knows? Nevertheless, it’s interesting to see an everyday picture of actual people.

A For A Few Recent Photos…

We’ve been keeping busy during these trying times and below are some recent fashions photos that we took in our backyard:

And sporting a more outdoors look… 🙂

It kind of looks like Hjo Sweden but it’s not…And of course, the obligatory selfie while getting reading… 😉

House Dress? Wrapper? Morning Dress?

 

Wrapper? House Dress? Morning Dress? When it comes to these three garments, there’s a lot of overlap and it’s sometimes difficult to tell them apart. One useful way to approach this is to consider the characteristics that all these garments have, or to tend to have, in common:

  • Princess Line Styling
  • Relatively Loose Fit (This can be subjective)
  • Worn At Home Either In Private Or For Social Situations

When  stripped of all their trim and lace, they become functional, stripped-down versions of day dresses characteristic of the 1880s and 90s. Also, while it envisioned that a corset wasn’t worn with these garments, that wasn’t always the case but either way, the created a less structured silhouette. The Princess line style with its lack of a defined waistline was especially useful in this endeavor.

To further illustrate, we start with this dress from circa 1879-1880:

Wrapper/House Dress, c. 1879-1880; John Bright Collection

Side Profile

Rear View

This dress has clean lines and little ornamentation except for the embroidered middle hem, cuffs, and pockets. While this dress appears to be somewhat looser than a conventional day dress, it’s clear that it was meant for wear with a corset. This dress below is more unstructured and almost could be mistaken for being a robe:

And dresses could be more structured as with this one:

House Dress, c. 1880s; University of New Hampshire Textile Library

In looking at the side profile, to a great degree it maintains the robe-like appearance although it’s much elaborately trimmed.

This one has far more ornamentation and in our opinion really is more of a day dress than a house dress per se. But, as with a lot of this, the border between something that was worn out in public versus strictly at home is blurred and it’s possible that dresses often served “double duty,” especially for those of lesser means.

 

In the end, probably the easiest way to distinguish between dress types is to consider the dress silhouette, style, and use of fabrics and trims. Dresses meant to be worn in the privacy of the home are more likely to be functional and not as structured as dresses that were meant to be seen in social situations in the home. Finally, we wish to note that while we don’t profess to have the definitive answer, we do hope that we’ve provided some useful tools for trying to distinguish between dress types while acknowledging that there’s bound to be inconsistencies. Stay tuned for more!