Time spent in Christmas Not-So-Past with a good friend in a small chapel built for a monarch at the Vyne in England.
Time spent in Christmas Not-So-Past with a good friend in a small chapel built for a monarch at the Vyne in England.
Even in Southern California (and Southern Arizona, for that matter), December can get cold and when it does, our thoughts rapidly turn to outerwear. 🙂 Today we turn to the December 1890 issue of Demorest’s Family Magazine:
Decidedly the most popular outdoor garment this season is the jacket, which is worn by ladies of all ages, whether of petite or portly figure. All styles agree in having the fitted back, differing only in the use or omission of plaits or lap at the side-form and back seams, and the majority have tight-fitting fronts, either single or double-breasted, the loose fronted “Reefer,” and the open, rolling fronts displaying a vest, being the exceptions.
Here’s some examples of styles pictured in Demorest’s:
One of the more interesting and eminently practical is the “Reefer” Jacket:

Here’s another view of the jacket style as part of a complete outfit from the December issue of Peterson’s Magazine:
Finally, just to round things off here are some pictures of extant originals:
Jackets were an integral part of any wardrobe of the period, ranging from the purely functional to the extremely fashionable, and there’s a wide range of possibilities for those recreating historical fashions.
Following up on a previous post, here’s another video from the Met Museum, this time an evening dress from circa 1884-1886. This should be a familiar dress to anyone interested in late 19th Century fashion history in that it epitomizes the extreme bustle fashion styles that developed during the mid to late 1880s:
This video takes a closer look at the dress as it’s taken out of storage. Because it’s stored flat, here’s a side profile view that gives a better idea of the dress as it was worn:
The video is very useful in that it provides some interesting close-up views of the dress itself. One interesting element is the pillow that is sewn into upper rear skirt, providing a built-in bustle pillow. The bodice itself is boned although this was purely to maintain the bodice structure/silhouette- the wearer would have been corseted. The dress was made by a one Antoinette Grapanche of New York:
Like almost all vintage garments, this dress is stored flat and outside of a special exhibition, will unfortunately never be seen by the general public, which is a pity but understandable; it would have been nice to have some more photos of this dress from various angles. Anyway, we hope you’ve enjoyed this “little bit more” about another amazing dress from the late 19th Century.
Blue wool from London’s Soho ready to go with my American Duchess blue Londoners…shipping dates were just posted for the pre-sale event! I have plans for a fin de siecle tailored suit (completely opposite from my usual style) once my December orders are finished.

Did any of you take advantage of the pre-sale? I was so excited to see color in the new designs, as much as I like brown…it’s not a shade that flatters me. What colors suit you? Share in the comments!