Black…Not Just for Mourning

Wearing black wasn’t just for Mourning, it was considered an elegant color for fancy wear or even a wedding…a “best” dress. The dyes of the 19th century were often (but not always) “weighted” with lead, arsenic, and other lovely chemicals and metals…mostly for the purpose of keeping the color intact.

This lovely late 1890s bodice was obviously a favorite, there’s some wear, a self-fabric patch, and only the lace is a bit brownish and faded. Styles like this were common and sometimes were worn with different skirts for a bit of variety. Printed and colored linings were popular as well, sometimes “that’s all they had” or “pretty on the inside”. This one is heavily boned with baleen (what they called “whalebone”) and even though it was stiffened, a woman would have still worn this over a boned corset. Just a sweet example of What She Wore.


Something More From The Lily Absinthe Collection

This transitional dress has elements in two fashion eras, dual openings in front (real and faux) and triple split tails in back (with skirt weights!) to accommodate a fashionably bustle’d rear view…definitely one of my BFFs in our collection.


Something From The Lily Absinthe Collection

I love this little early 1870s lady, she has a skirt, an apron, and a pereline in this dress suite. Notice the lack of trim, it’s all drawn thread work from the original silk. This will be fun to draft a pattern from.


Interior Finishing

In the course of sorting out some period garments for Tombstone, we happened across one of the bodices in our collection and after looking at it, it struck me that this demonstrates some of the key elements in period seam finishing. First, the seam allowances have been finished off with an overcast stitch. Also, note the use of boning to add structure to the bodice- this didn’t replace the corset but rather aided in helping to define the bodice shape.

Also, we want to note that this bodice employs flat-lining- this is where a reinforcing piece of fabric is attached to the interior side of the fashion fabric to add stability. This is especially useful when dealing with lighter fabrics and especially silks (polished cotton was frequently used).

Finally, we note that hooks and eyes are used, all the hooks one side, the eyes on the other. You will see an alternating pattern with some bodices but either way is good and both were used.


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Saturday At The Atelier

Don’t you just love to spend rainy Saturdays doing a little hand sewing? I sure do! ❤️
Big reveal in a few days…check my IG stories for progress!


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