And For Something Different…

Just for something different, here is a picture of myself from last weekend at a First World War living history event. I am in a German infantry uniform, circa 1915-18 consisting of the 1915 pattern Bluse and 1907 pattern infantry trousers. I am wearing a Feldmütz bearing the national cockade of Imperial Germany on top and the state cockade for the Kingdom of Prussia (the German Empire at this time was essentially a federation of states with Prussian having the dominant role).

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Compared to the fashionable garments I normally work with, this is as utilitarian and ugly as it gets and it amply shows the contrast between the decorative and the functional and mirrors the profound changes that occurred as a result of the First World War.

But not too worry, I am back to my usual. 🙂

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Lily Absinthe’s Spring Color Palette, 2016

As a follow-up to our previous post, we thought that we’d delve a little more into the inspiration for our chartreuse design for Spring 2016…

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Chartreuse has been a major inspiration for us this Spring and just for fun, we thought we’d include a little more about it- you could call it our electronic mood board, if you will. This color has really struck a chord with us this year, perhaps because of Chartreuse’s association with the Aesthetic Movement which was in full bloom during the 1880s. With its focus on art for art’s sake, the Aesthetic Movement was a reaction to industrialization and the growth of commercial culture (i.e. “the marketplace”) and it sought to re-introduce elements of pre-industrial society back into society. Originally focused in Great Britain, the movement gained adherents both in the United States and Western Europe. On a more basic level, adherents of the Aesthetic Movement believed that art should be only governed by aesthetics rather than practical or moral considerations- it was to only exist for itself, not to serve a greater social need. Although starting with painting, the Aesthetic Movement also encompassed all the arts and ultimately found its way into fashion, primarily through color and textiles in the form of design motifs. Finally, the Aesthetic Movement also drew inspiration from the Middle and Far East and especially with Japonisme.

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Detail of Forest Tapestry by William Morris

Color was especially influenced by the Aesthetic Movement in that the emphasis was placed on colors that closely matched those found in the natural world and various shades of green were an integral part of this. For us, chartreuse was a natural choice and it reflected in the various trims that we are incorporating in one of our spring designs:

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Trim for a new dress under construction.

Based on the above picture, we were able to generate a rough color palette:

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Now, we grant that color interpretation, especially with computers, can be a somewhat subjective thing so we’ve supplemented it with a more traditional color palette for chartreuse and related color shades:

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A computer-generated color palette is one thing, nature is another. Let’s take a look at some natural inspiration:

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And now for a little more inspiration other sources, starting with the House of Worth:

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Evening Dress, House of Worth, c. 1899; Metropolitan Museum of Art (35.134.16a, b)

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Wedding Dress, 1874; Chicago History Museum (1946.31a-d). Worn by Harriet Newell Dewey when she married Robert S. Elder.

And a few paintings…

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“Veronica Veronese” (1872) by Dante Rossetti (1828 – 1882)

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“The Mirror” (1889) by Gunnar Berndtson (1854- 1895).

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“Dawn” (1907) by Edmund Hodgson Smart (1873 – 1942)

And finally, just for fun since the color also plays off of Lily Absinthe’s signature color… 🙂

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This is just one of several designs were developing and we’ll have more to show in later posts. We hope you have enjoyed this little journey though the process of inspiration. 🙂

 

In Progress For Spring…

Hello Spring 1880s! Spring is upon us and we’re seeing Aesthetic Era with chartreuse and gold: 🙂

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This early 1880s design is based on a color palette of light green/chartreuse with a hint of gold and is built from various vintage fabrics that we have acquired over the years. To create an even more complete “look”, we’re also making the trim itself to include the pleating and fringing- no “store bought” trim here!

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Two rolls of silk dupioni and three of silk taffeta, both narrow hemmed and pleated, and five meters each. Now, on to make the piping, so I can make the trim. The “guts” come first…then the “frosting”, my favorite!

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Vintage Aesthetic era printed silk, pin-pulled silk fringe, silk taffeta and chiffon…inspired by my garden, too pretty to pass up. <3

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And fifty yards of silk taffeta piping and voila!

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The skirt taking form…

This dress promises to be one our most exciting designs and it completely captures the essence of spring. 🙂

Lily Absinthe & Clockwork Alchemy

We are happy to announce that we will be showing some our designs in the fashion show at the Clockwork Alchemy Convention on Sunday, May 29, 2016. At that time, we’ll be unveiling two new designs and while we would love to preview them, we’re keeping them under wraps for now- you’ll just have to wait. 🙂

This is an exciting opportunity for us in that we will get to display some of our newest designs before the public and it brings up to a whole new level. Clockwork Alchemy is oriented towards steampunk but don’t let that throw you- it’s rooted in the Victorian Era and that’s exactly where we are. 🙂

We will also be giving a presentation on Victorian clothing and the American West as well as Victorian Era clothing accessories. We look forward to seeing you so stay tuned for more information! Now, back to work… 🙂

Pleats Away…

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Pleating is an art for all it’s own and our Lily Absinthe gowns are famous for them. Did you know that each kind of pleat has it’s own construction process? this is from a gown from late 2014 that I made showing lined origami folds, next to pipe-style box pleats, topped with basic narrow edged knife pleating. How is this done? Hint* They’re all hand-sewn (invisibly) from behind!

Sometimes the hard way is the best reward. <3