In this post we will take a look at Emile Pingat, a designer who was well known in the mid to late Nineteenth Centuries but who is relatively unknown today. Active at the same as the Charles Frederick Worth, Emile Pingat (1820 – 1901) was considered to be Worth’s equal in the Paris Fashion world. Unfortunately, not a lot is known about Pingat except that he was active between 1860 and 1896 and often referred to in the press along with Worth.

It is said that Pingat’s speciality was outwear such as coats and mantels but judging from his body of work that is still extant, it would appear that he was also equally as talented when it came to dresses and gowns and was Worth’s equal. Below are some examples starting with outerwear:

Emile Pingat, Cape, c. 1895; Metropolitan Museum of Art (2009.300.485)

View of the cape flattened.

The Label

The above cape utilizes black beadwork embroidery mounted on a series of alternating flat and pleated wool panels. The cape is immaculately tailored and the peach color harmonizes with the black embroidery and trim.

Below is another example:

Emile Pingat, Mantle, c. 1885; Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM) Museum; (2007.905.1)

Side View

Rear View

The above is a mantle from circa 1885. The front is shorter than the front in order to accommodate the bustle. Also, throughout the mantle, one can see highly complex patterns of beaded embroidery and trim. The fashion fabric itself is fairly restrained and from both of the above examples, the fabric is simply a background for the elaborate embroidery and beadwork.

Now we turn to some other types of garments:

Emile Pingat, Dinner Dress, 1878; Chicago History Museum (1976.270.1a-b)

Side Profile

Rear View

Sleeve Detail

Hem Detail.

The above dinner dress was purchased by Mrs. Augustus Newland Eddy (nee Abby Louise Spencer) when she was in Paris with her father in 1878. Mrs. Eddy married Augustus Newland Eddy in Chicago in 1872 and she later died on January 2, 1909 in Chicago. Below is a portrait of her wearing the dress which she referred to as her “party dress”:

Mrs. Augustus Newland Eddy with husband and child, c. 1878.

Mrs. Augustus Newland Eddy

To Be Continued…