More At The Atelier- Eton Jacket Project No. 2

More progress on the Eton jacket…the pad stitching has done a number on my fingers so progress has been a bit slow. I’m trying out some new tailoring techniques, at least to me- the fabric is a herringbone weave teal linen with the unfortunately property of REALLY stretching so it’s presented some challenges that I didn’t anticipate. But, nevertheless, I’ve completed the outer shell and the collar parts. The next step will be working with the facings and the lining…

The lapels have been steamed and are hanging very nicely. Someone who looked at my previous Eton jacket project stated that the lapels were “too stiff”- well, yes, that’s exactly THE POINT! 🙂 What you want to avoid are the lapels flopping about- rather, you want a degree of stiffness so they will maintain their shape, especially since the Eton jacket is meant to worn open.

 

The undercollar was fairly labor-intensive. I first had to carefully cut out the undercollar itself, purposely making the edges about 1/4″ less than the top collar so as to allow for the “turn of the cloth”- essentially to ensure that the material on the undercollar remains hidden when the collar is constructed.

The right side/fashion fabric side of the undercollar. You can see the pad stitching, along with my mistakes which will all be hidden once the collar is completely assembled. 😉 Well, that’s all for now but there will be more soon.


 


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